tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47959725809174309602024-03-13T11:08:59.380-06:00Adventures in GuatemalaAfter a weather delayed start Pam and I made a trip to the western highlands this year. We mixed big little city Xela with the beauty of Lake Atitlan. Pam let me stay on after her return to the USPS and I headed down east to the bay of Amatique. Starting from the oldest posts and working forward provides the most continuity if thats important. Facts are liberally intermingled with fiction due to my semi-functional understanding of native speakers. Click on any photo for more detail.Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.comBlogger34125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-2742690727100203562011-03-01T11:59:00.016-06:002011-03-22T05:57:43.355-06:00Xela in the Rearview<pre><b><i>
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<i>Someday I'm gonna leave this dirty little town</i><br />
<i>Where the talk is cheap on the dirty little streets</i><br />
<i>And the trees are dying underneath the sky thats purple and brown</i><br />
<i>You can't drink the water can't breath the air</i><br />
<i>If you go out at all well you better take care</i><br />
<i>People packin' heat on the mean old streets of this dirty little town</i><br />
Kieran Kane (Steve Earle/Lucinda Williams)<br />
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Seriously, I love Xela, my wifes first visit was an unqualified success (she'd like to return) and I don't want to be like the folks who move to my little corner of Pennsylvania thinking its wonderful and then immediately want to change everything BUT everytime I watch a gay caballero dump garbage from their car to the calle I wonder if there's any concept of civic pride amongst the average citizens of Latin America. Today it was a guy in his guard uniform casually dropping his soda can at arms length from his buddies Honda as they rolled by the bus station. From Puerto Rico, to The Dominican Republic, Honduras to Guatemala everyplace I've visited has the same FU attitude towards crapping in their neighbors and their own backyard. My first visit to Xela, two years ago, the kids at El Mundo organized a Cero Baul clean-up. While I didn't go check I'm guessing it was not a permanent solution. Another possible project for those energetic evangelicals perhaps.</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;">Puerto Barrios has a nice airport that doesn't have any flights in or out, ditto Xela. The bus to Puerto Barrios is 6hrs and $13 bucks for what was a 35 minute $40 flight at one time. While I was out touring with taxista Manuel we were stopped at a government checkpoint near the Honduran border. When he told the PNC (scary big gun toting quasi military) officers that I was a tourist from the USA they practically rolled out a red carpet. They value our limited interest in their beautiful country very highly. Which doesn't mean you don't need to check your restaurant/bar tab but the welcome mat is out.</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;">Speaking of bus travel I learned first-hand the difference between first-class and direct. Comparing schedules I thought that the 1:00pm Transportes Galgos would get me to the capital a couple hours earlier than the 3:30 Linea Dorada (before dark). Wrong-o! The lightly populated old greyhound (love that they use the old logo as well, do <i>not</i> believe the picture of the bus <a href="http://www.transgalgosinter.com.gt/">http://www.transgalgosinter.com.gt/</a> ) pulled out of the Rodolfo Robles station about 1:20 and proceeded to Minerva to round up more passengers, followed by stops at Quatro Caminos, Los Encuentros, and everyplace else anyone could be persuaded to climb aboard. I think we beat the 3:30 LD by 40 minutes however I did save Q20.</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;">In the hard way to make a living department. A handsome, ambitious guatemalteco, complete with sample case, climbed aboard our old hound in the middle of nowhere and after briefly conferring with piloto and ayudante proceeded to deliver a sales pitch for some miracle healing herb he had available for purchase. I thought at first he was speaking allegorically and would eventually get around to a little soul saving but not the case. Recipe books were also available to help get more of the herb into our diets. No sales were made to the tough but captive audience and he left us at the next stop to board another rolling showroom.</div><div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;"><br />
</div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;">The Albamar restaurant off the square does a pretty nice job. A huge boiling bowl of caldo tlapeno </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;">soothes the road ravaged tummy as well as anything I've run across. It's pricy by Xela standards with tablecloths, chilled crockery beer mugs(but with huge chips) nice bowls of condiments (but cracked enough so liquid would run out and thus used for queso or cebolla). My favorite twist is the urinal cake hanging from the flush lever (they last longer if you don't pee on them).</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;">I hate that my government doesn't want me to have any of the great trucks, vans and cars that populate the autopistas and calles of Guatemala. From the little tiny cargo vans and chinese hatchbacks sporting Chevy bow ties to the 5 speed diesel mini-vans that don't want to go the mall. Flat bed forward control dump trucks with available 4x4 that will fit down 500 year old cobblestone streets and little tiny Nissan El Camino/Ranchero clones. I'd probably just hurt myself and then sue somebody.</span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDnFmQ8rJsXLgwngILbPZqqa0xFcz-TwEtAFH_m1n-SveAJ-k5w8KdNuO5qjGDLAWTQ0vacVH7i2AKzOMHR0wfhP_VHBhHKp7HWxDaa0aGpfBzWhl7coKnp00D8533CEZoQTCwzuqxufo/s1600/DSC00697.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDnFmQ8rJsXLgwngILbPZqqa0xFcz-TwEtAFH_m1n-SveAJ-k5w8KdNuO5qjGDLAWTQ0vacVH7i2AKzOMHR0wfhP_VHBhHKp7HWxDaa0aGpfBzWhl7coKnp00D8533CEZoQTCwzuqxufo/s320/DSC00697.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"> How we roll</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Oe_oW_6JcEqpwoJeMO-TQ4YWJ-WUZYQmSI4b5onYWoBeV_TUEYzO_qAKEwGhTBdX15Ts6ASyeVlmDcVwHjHbGVibST3UDqzi0rSGz7PA4OlGIt5eFR7FrhR2q7xtjluj6YdrGKMhvOY/s1600/DSC00699.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0Oe_oW_6JcEqpwoJeMO-TQ4YWJ-WUZYQmSI4b5onYWoBeV_TUEYzO_qAKEwGhTBdX15Ts6ASyeVlmDcVwHjHbGVibST3UDqzi0rSGz7PA4OlGIt5eFR7FrhR2q7xtjluj6YdrGKMhvOY/s320/DSC00699.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;">Willie Loman doesn't know</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY8fQanzqjYSo7inKhZ8OTV11AxHLC69nVTfB6ckwc9swtILur3XZFX9VnlE-UMbqXTemLVeTSikAUjGtpGe4ZOICobsAL2ZGErIzoPFLka1kpu9kzFWyRNOLBB658zq07Odo3Flyq7Xs/s1600/DSC00347.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgY8fQanzqjYSo7inKhZ8OTV11AxHLC69nVTfB6ckwc9swtILur3XZFX9VnlE-UMbqXTemLVeTSikAUjGtpGe4ZOICobsAL2ZGErIzoPFLka1kpu9kzFWyRNOLBB658zq07Odo3Flyq7Xs/s320/DSC00347.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"> The rest room smelled fresh</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuoLDlX7-q65JdckkKrobVCXgZRLlIlZ9eF8ocFf0880VHmuKYl6HU3cEeHilMnWY2tXNg7ETycQ3n-0uEfCqWDdtv0_VvD_jLyTIExxGE3CXUdLvpFvKTEnW4684DiLiXX2MGEJ63i4/s1600/DSC00391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhuoLDlX7-q65JdckkKrobVCXgZRLlIlZ9eF8ocFf0880VHmuKYl6HU3cEeHilMnWY2tXNg7ETycQ3n-0uEfCqWDdtv0_VvD_jLyTIExxGE3CXUdLvpFvKTEnW4684DiLiXX2MGEJ63i4/s320/DSC00391.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"> Excellent gas mileage if you don't overload it</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAIP4oM6XyGgjNNdI9OM3qDA1yEzlv_xWnMKczpz-XWyQsDgk7bu5i653LRMJ4bhkiPWnWtsfNJ0_x-PCLogcmrTgMLfUKRT7JIwMCejX6slhePHUF491xvgf03nEPobE2uAKLP4N4htw/s1600/DSC00678.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAIP4oM6XyGgjNNdI9OM3qDA1yEzlv_xWnMKczpz-XWyQsDgk7bu5i653LRMJ4bhkiPWnWtsfNJ0_x-PCLogcmrTgMLfUKRT7JIwMCejX6slhePHUF491xvgf03nEPobE2uAKLP4N4htw/s320/DSC00678.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; text-align: center;">no se divierten</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;"><br />
</div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;">I don't know why I love you like I do, I don't know why I just do. Hasta luego, hopefully.</div></div><div style="font-family: Verdana, Arial;"><br />
</div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-84474775593721953722011-02-27T18:17:00.000-06:002011-02-27T18:17:49.443-06:00Sunday in the parques plus two yearsSunday morning the sun is out as is the electricity. Cold showers in Xela include stinging pellets of ice so thats out of the question. I'm the first arrival at La Baviera where they probably assume I've been out all night on a bender. Yummy coffee con leche, the small fruit plate that would still feed two, some granola and still no power at the hotel. <div><br />
</div><div>Where do you go when you're feeling not so fresh? I walk to the zoo where I believe I'll blend in without attracting too much attention. The Zoo is free to residents and tourists alike. I missed it two years ago and its better than expected. Lots of green space with picnic areas, room for frisbee tossing, and isolated benches for the ever-present young guatemaltecos to discreetly smooch on. It is very much alive and kicking on a sunny sunday afternoon.</div><div><br />
</div><div>The animals appear to be humanely housed. They range from a couple of imported leopards to falcons and parrots and monkeys. The zoo has a nursery which raises the flowers to be transplanted all around the grounds as well as feed crops for the animals. The reptile house is closed but I'm slimy enough to make up for it.</div><div><br />
</div><div>There are two big playgrounds filled with incredibly dangerous equipment, a concrete pipe train to run through, a snake made from discarded tires to crawl through, and a four story tower with concrete slides from each of its levels to the ground (the kids will sleep tonight). Los ninos run and play, fall and get hurt, get picked up and dusted off and reminded to be more careful. No OSHA, no liability, no lawsuits. While its got tons of staggering problems there is a sense of personal responsibility here which is refreshing coming from our cradle to grave nanny state.</div><div><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuN8m2xUMgzU5mppvKP-IWjvfE1LgGvpxB42OiVZnOTNDfRZICAIUOl2ox6R0jTDSOwkZxTlaPi-SBrM5fABSz_j1gAsV7wEA9ebwHOyc9iaHJXdfij68DwQSshZO58sfgkSEBpCJ_qeA/s1600/DSC00672.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuN8m2xUMgzU5mppvKP-IWjvfE1LgGvpxB42OiVZnOTNDfRZICAIUOl2ox6R0jTDSOwkZxTlaPi-SBrM5fABSz_j1gAsV7wEA9ebwHOyc9iaHJXdfij68DwQSshZO58sfgkSEBpCJ_qeA/s320/DSC00672.JPG" width="261" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Shining beacon of goodness above Cerveceria Nacional</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWNLY4k8N8pDOUJA8RO6Fn8nL6mefHYq_iH9kQu1-SHmiWpcJr28hFGWr7pg-PlMNd0LN_EjxGpMsJVA0wEVMq2nZEF1_YeWGLsQWhLHYkC_BozQiSEoidQvV8XamqvjHFZyXmPwkICU/s1600/DSC00675.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTWNLY4k8N8pDOUJA8RO6Fn8nL6mefHYq_iH9kQu1-SHmiWpcJr28hFGWr7pg-PlMNd0LN_EjxGpMsJVA0wEVMq2nZEF1_YeWGLsQWhLHYkC_BozQiSEoidQvV8XamqvjHFZyXmPwkICU/s320/DSC00675.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Lots of hens and chicks in the nursery</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh429MPEZSZns2u1yAkkRI5y0gUAuZhZ3L9wzOtof892XsPfnP5zOp6hKHMFO_NBwBrMxrY-AgFEMkUNH2XubOa2dkjAzvpGOjCkx6XjfZ6aXG89ya7PFkirY-Hg9CTbV7KTRBhwAHDcrA/s1600/DSC00677.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh429MPEZSZns2u1yAkkRI5y0gUAuZhZ3L9wzOtof892XsPfnP5zOp6hKHMFO_NBwBrMxrY-AgFEMkUNH2XubOa2dkjAzvpGOjCkx6XjfZ6aXG89ya7PFkirY-Hg9CTbV7KTRBhwAHDcrA/s320/DSC00677.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Tower of fun and danger</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ4GRE3uI-sH-AqQRNS0NAnuqewhuZrV0ASsSnar6mqdEqAbOI9iLmmmUxuCxXicBiXkJk4DzAgKfjos9LjCwiUgVntGGvtaVabl7kW4xSXoobgx8dnmNmtmruMw-ClcAWdHjr_C9uOEk/s1600/DSC00679.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ4GRE3uI-sH-AqQRNS0NAnuqewhuZrV0ASsSnar6mqdEqAbOI9iLmmmUxuCxXicBiXkJk4DzAgKfjos9LjCwiUgVntGGvtaVabl7kW4xSXoobgx8dnmNmtmruMw-ClcAWdHjr_C9uOEk/s320/DSC00679.JPG" width="297" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> El mono</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bE3a3SylmnbuRJqsp490Hazp5S-GHUcO8ILRiiLvU7-mrsDOjet1szz1eDWzibJ7zjhifpaUf-PSHz_RXXMQuEdMxVDSq-JQLgPcypztH9i1DRxaeI98IY_Jn_RoYBKva4pCrLA67rM/s1600/DSC00681.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9bE3a3SylmnbuRJqsp490Hazp5S-GHUcO8ILRiiLvU7-mrsDOjet1szz1eDWzibJ7zjhifpaUf-PSHz_RXXMQuEdMxVDSq-JQLgPcypztH9i1DRxaeI98IY_Jn_RoYBKva4pCrLA67rM/s320/DSC00681.JPG" width="211" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Falcon crest</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxZOMBMjyAkkxmOuCNzRglmPiXnpjImP8zyxxSJLh3dNp4WhEx91V1bnArUP39_HOmmcwsNtoy437ZjGlsNk4B7SDVNilGCvNYru71RvFDqTaISalitcKnw8MxHbXRfkptD3AB22oigk/s1600/DSC00683.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsxZOMBMjyAkkxmOuCNzRglmPiXnpjImP8zyxxSJLh3dNp4WhEx91V1bnArUP39_HOmmcwsNtoy437ZjGlsNk4B7SDVNilGCvNYru71RvFDqTaISalitcKnw8MxHbXRfkptD3AB22oigk/s320/DSC00683.JPG" width="198" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Non-canadian touq</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEhJBHV7qRlcahOriXlTuv3uXmGUfpcGom7whhbJiupPicpv312e_iAE3NifpQiFfcmbx5GxRevMfEhaD76lTvHz9LkLLRMVPvuLt0Qk5Q5xuiAjKpLf5FGc8pZyzxeYlNRsn7Nm_2jE/s1600/DSC00688.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJEhJBHV7qRlcahOriXlTuv3uXmGUfpcGom7whhbJiupPicpv312e_iAE3NifpQiFfcmbx5GxRevMfEhaD76lTvHz9LkLLRMVPvuLt0Qk5Q5xuiAjKpLf5FGc8pZyzxeYlNRsn7Nm_2jE/s320/DSC00688.JPG" width="283" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Carrot tops little brother, parrot tail</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgglPqjWvPW9h0qVLJkgYr1_j5uoJcU16-FXl8t_63gdWN2bC8CGpN7wBnqgflOapWu2qLpeSwAaS_kXqe8OF2Ax11kv9xZlnoQq-K4zL9MCEYbWviBk1nN8KBnKQGiuyiU9WPdZoKdBpI/s1600/DSC00689.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="105" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgglPqjWvPW9h0qVLJkgYr1_j5uoJcU16-FXl8t_63gdWN2bC8CGpN7wBnqgflOapWu2qLpeSwAaS_kXqe8OF2Ax11kv9xZlnoQq-K4zL9MCEYbWviBk1nN8KBnKQGiuyiU9WPdZoKdBpI/s320/DSC00689.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Well used green spaces in la ciudad</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJcoa9dp_vbodNKPrmXhRqIDBLQlOktJbqv_wioYh0heY106-8OGY34FcEfOkkZ9h-7VubGdEGNYQ43DXFLnisLtg0NPZME1jRctYz4pTx1_mUIVFM_WvjX5CLDrn6xJ3zO4n8O0109tg/s1600/DSC00694.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJcoa9dp_vbodNKPrmXhRqIDBLQlOktJbqv_wioYh0heY106-8OGY34FcEfOkkZ9h-7VubGdEGNYQ43DXFLnisLtg0NPZME1jRctYz4pTx1_mUIVFM_WvjX5CLDrn6xJ3zO4n8O0109tg/s320/DSC00694.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Hellbound train on right</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWYjg-xb_evsVZtpB-87iJi_cGWGT4T_WJUsDuWuRfX4ikjlbftvF4vHqbA1TbAPVufOH_5hs1tO7F_4mtjklr1CZD7T_oBA-QLPgSLPh94DaTLJmxD4cCJwvtTfjvrY80qTGNSHdyw8/s1600/DSC00696.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIWYjg-xb_evsVZtpB-87iJi_cGWGT4T_WJUsDuWuRfX4ikjlbftvF4vHqbA1TbAPVufOH_5hs1tO7F_4mtjklr1CZD7T_oBA-QLPgSLPh94DaTLJmxD4cCJwvtTfjvrY80qTGNSHdyw8/s320/DSC00696.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">In the parking lot, seriously.</div><div><br />
</div><div>My feet are begging me for a return to hammocks and soft sand beaches but its not in the cards. I hobble back to el centro over concrete and cobblestones and grab a couple of Cabros with a Tecun burger. The hot waters back on and its probably time for an after shower nap. Yesterdays dumped garbage was being collected on my walk home so things are definitely looking up.</div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-68222576086592683332011-02-27T17:30:00.001-06:002011-03-13T18:30:08.261-06:00Los SUPER ChivosRams are symbolically manly and strong in Guatemala as are roosters. The two local beers of favor, Gallo - rooster, and Cabro-ram. El Gallo Mas Gallo is a manly chain of stores selling electrodomesticos - appliances. It goes on and on but somewhere near the top of the goat heap has to be the futbal club of Xela, the fabulous Super Chivos.<br />
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Litegua runs around the clock so a red eye from Puerto Barrios on a comfy modern bus is no hardship. The 1:00am direct pulls out on schedule with a small band of viajeros on board. The wide leather seats do a 3/4 recline. padded legrests hinged at the bottom of the seatback in front of you fold down to meet the front of your seat cushion, add earplugs and the six hour trip to Guate disappears with the night. There's only an hour to spare but Linea Dorada is in the next block and soon the pullman class snoozing and cruising continue. In a little under twelve hours time steamy sea level Puerto Barrios is exchanged for the crisp clean nearly 8000 ft. air of Xela.<br />
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I'm slow off the bus and collecting my baggage and the taxis have all departed with other fares before I'm ready. Its all downhill to el centro so with gym bag strapped atop rolling suitcase I set off down the familiar cobblestone streets. Rounding the first corner its obvious that Xela is in full party mode. Streets are closed to traffic and are filled with vendors tents advertising beer, food, tequila, rum, and everything Super Chivo from hats to t-shirts to mini vuvuzelas. Its the beloved local futbal clubs 69th anniversary weekend and they're scheduled to play their top ranked rival. Los Chivos are number two in the rankings but a victory tonight would turn the tables and put them in first. <br />
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Although I don't roll in until 2:00 our friends at the Mini-Max lavenderia have mi ropa washed, dried, and folded by 5:00 for Q55. With just enough time to drop it at the hotel and chug on up to Mario Camposeco stadium I join thousands of fans to queue up for the 6:00 start. I pick the wrong line and wind up in the cheap seats with the more...uh...rabid fans. Q20 buys your choice of whats not taken yet in seating. I wander down the sideline and wind up with one of the plastic seat pans mounted on concrete terraces that form this side of the stadium. I've got a pretty good view of the field with the goal Xela will be shooting for in the second half close at hand. <br />
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Pageantry, ceremony, fireworks, free-flying commemorative hot air balloons carrying fire aloft, a BIG brass band, competing fan clubs with lots of BIG drums at opposite ends of the field, and vuvuzela blowers. I participate in several waves which still appear to be in vogue here, and as an added bonus within the first few minutes of play I've learned several new spanish words and phrases that I probably shouldn't repeat here.<br />
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At half time it's still 0-0 but at 36:30 into the second period the Super Chivos score the nights first goal and of course all hell breaks loose but in a good way. They hang on to withstand a couple of last minute charges and when the buzzer sounds Los Chivos are number one. This is the perfect excuse for much drinking and public urination but I slip away after scoring an awesome piece of fanwear for Pammy. On the walk back to el centro a three wheeled cargo carrying tricycle hastily dumps a dozen or so bags of garbage in a park and then speeds off into the night as fast as he can pedal. Ah, Xela!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4HOAM0qB-ppt1X9uogYf0WAlt_GLbjW3BXLBC14UbWg6NK4dNjmHsVpf30yOLcJVxoMF6cNpwkuXWb1vWxUbJX8CNJABlu9X1i2q7o8CK67NDbDspmUG5dSyOby1uEOIHxq49kl2248/s1600/DSC00659.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp4HOAM0qB-ppt1X9uogYf0WAlt_GLbjW3BXLBC14UbWg6NK4dNjmHsVpf30yOLcJVxoMF6cNpwkuXWb1vWxUbJX8CNJABlu9X1i2q7o8CK67NDbDspmUG5dSyOby1uEOIHxq49kl2248/s320/DSC00659.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Starting to get crowded</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QUbJS5DbNaEXCgksrorjUyT92BTIDXFUkJ_7ibzjIFAhjzKN8LGoY4swPqbGY8uiOAT8TE_Z6LayCS3ijqi28J9asCQ9K7yQspLaJ_CW2BvNeAhVEdWujvECujywIKOpIsXmznDMvYg/s1600/DSC00662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7QUbJS5DbNaEXCgksrorjUyT92BTIDXFUkJ_7ibzjIFAhjzKN8LGoY4swPqbGY8uiOAT8TE_Z6LayCS3ijqi28J9asCQ9K7yQspLaJ_CW2BvNeAhVEdWujvECujywIKOpIsXmznDMvYg/s320/DSC00662.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">The cheap seats, whaddya want for $2.60 </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCw-F3oijfY9BzvT61T3aXnbAz5lcBKFC3EzyFAbYysuZKLpRFgCAoBpXC2AL_Q9rQMBmSECXcgOC74J0n519pshG6VBjh5ZeYkbMn44WqxrDQqpsywWL7sfM8qPW5BAFB8pumrj9J1g/s1600/DSC00664.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaCw-F3oijfY9BzvT61T3aXnbAz5lcBKFC3EzyFAbYysuZKLpRFgCAoBpXC2AL_Q9rQMBmSECXcgOC74J0n519pshG6VBjh5ZeYkbMn44WqxrDQqpsywWL7sfM8qPW5BAFB8pumrj9J1g/s320/DSC00664.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Super Chivo and Chivita </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5LrEAHwaXRaoIhGxvvHS8RnAkF1clnJa1ZftZW0xwolMr0k2FMyNcaZfQZEQ9Lj903xPdrW-UUyR4WnZy8trYw3JWVlNJ2tql-ywPtwW_BvlKeDx3WDy6zXaQmJ3hAGVq01cswHXWu8/s1600/DSC00666.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhj5LrEAHwaXRaoIhGxvvHS8RnAkF1clnJa1ZftZW0xwolMr0k2FMyNcaZfQZEQ9Lj903xPdrW-UUyR4WnZy8trYw3JWVlNJ2tql-ywPtwW_BvlKeDx3WDy6zXaQmJ3hAGVq01cswHXWu8/s320/DSC00666.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">The Q40 seats </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDfyiD4gmj4Ot6Dhx-f3Xy_mIjovqsWxzU0oOEmJbRCw703Gk6D6QThyW8R9yjPRzMhn1zJ6Jx-kuyB2RYNhr5e2MsKw5C6V1zWowlfKijWbpf3jDHa78dqTkLEEaRMse6WV4SPy51V8/s1600/DSC00670.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdDfyiD4gmj4Ot6Dhx-f3Xy_mIjovqsWxzU0oOEmJbRCw703Gk6D6QThyW8R9yjPRzMhn1zJ6Jx-kuyB2RYNhr5e2MsKw5C6V1zWowlfKijWbpf3jDHa78dqTkLEEaRMse6WV4SPy51V8/s320/DSC00670.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">A full two minutes into the second half the smoke lifted</div><br />
A night of Guatemalan futbal with ten or fifteen thousand fans probably doesn't rival Arsenal or Madrid but it is an awful lot of fun. The non-stop nature of the game works well live surrounded by partisans. No time outs, no replays, no challenges, (when do they advertise beer and chips?) no concussions, no steroid pumped mutants, just twenty two well conditioned athletes running their butts off for 90 minutes while doing amazing things with their heads, feet and torsos.Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-81027454231678952472011-02-26T15:45:00.001-06:002011-02-26T15:55:57.222-06:00El Dia de Las Vacas FlacasSkinny cows, also hard times "tiempo de las vacas flacas". <br />
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I've had more crazy stuff happen just walking around Guatemalan cities than I ever imagined. The people are connected in a way that is reminiscent of the 40's or 50's in the US. I was looking for somewhere to have breakfast with real coffee and something other than huevos and frijoles. Spotted a little storefront panaderia with a banner advertising cafe y jugos natural. After my usual tortured order placement in espanol the mujer behind the counter says "english?" Si, senora. She and her husband both spent time in the US where she earned a masters in hospital administration. She got a high paying job here complete with lots of stress and dangerous solo travel by car all over the country. Last April they dropped out and opened a little bakery in Puerto Barrios where they are making a living and are expecting their first child about the time the panaderia celebrates it's first anniversary. I inquired about renting a bike or car or moto for the day and they thought that for the same money I could probably hire a driver. The called their friend Luis a professional guide, who in turn called Manuel an english speaking taxista. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTXdhXhe_P4_PaZVHCn2KTnLpp5R3UzfIc7faNUOTzXM798iIVkGHFWTQxue5UspXz7Qu9ywj1Jpy6Du_kb-HSosuOypUNwf5Lo9DlFYfvpLVmuekHhGiZGmjmepqAZsoHtlszsrpSLSc/s1600/DSC00598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTXdhXhe_P4_PaZVHCn2KTnLpp5R3UzfIc7faNUOTzXM798iIVkGHFWTQxue5UspXz7Qu9ywj1Jpy6Du_kb-HSosuOypUNwf5Lo9DlFYfvpLVmuekHhGiZGmjmepqAZsoHtlszsrpSLSc/s320/DSC00598.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Skinny cows looking for shade</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-_XyumMjEMpp7LnKfUJEHvbGs_wjtY-WAsrMqzPhKeBLp1B3hm3s-pS8O-3eSlgus-4STHcgKkP1k5iw740KhtSzD70xTnD0HNWgX4efGrTk4UyyXukvHW9bXBOrZHY_lyrUfO9oeYQ/s1600/DSC00602.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL-_XyumMjEMpp7LnKfUJEHvbGs_wjtY-WAsrMqzPhKeBLp1B3hm3s-pS8O-3eSlgus-4STHcgKkP1k5iw740KhtSzD70xTnD0HNWgX4efGrTk4UyyXukvHW9bXBOrZHY_lyrUfO9oeYQ/s320/DSC00602.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Spooky cave reputed to join caverns and underground rivers running from Tikal to Coban</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7pPIwfhInsPv363OGcmecZo2qIRcE9cBGrSUYKtP_CD90t4TJJuMY4wkc5mOVCRK-c5t03-dFfYAGHSxrl-mYbOZIzzFS8mf9Zw5CwvkjtYR3n6zsL80jlUt4uiiJtQC97BnC-VD-DY/s1600/DSC00606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid7pPIwfhInsPv363OGcmecZo2qIRcE9cBGrSUYKtP_CD90t4TJJuMY4wkc5mOVCRK-c5t03-dFfYAGHSxrl-mYbOZIzzFS8mf9Zw5CwvkjtYR3n6zsL80jlUt4uiiJtQC97BnC-VD-DY/s320/DSC00606.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Rio Dulce, sweet hurricane hole for yachties trying to escape coastal storms</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69yKmk-ptPeU7jXAa0xuscRFIBcWvY_cDzX5hNkDeeTkqvOxDQXqUz2DveSjYODHOIPnscxCKjmytwzTPdWITO1Sls1Lz0KOKh_R_ns7ZWpMVHHGDvqGzIic2nOjLQ9ybZvAjLiJ0H_8/s1600/DSC00618.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj69yKmk-ptPeU7jXAa0xuscRFIBcWvY_cDzX5hNkDeeTkqvOxDQXqUz2DveSjYODHOIPnscxCKjmytwzTPdWITO1Sls1Lz0KOKh_R_ns7ZWpMVHHGDvqGzIic2nOjLQ9ybZvAjLiJ0H_8/s320/DSC00618.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Castillo San Felipe overlookng El Golfete</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTsB5YpVnqWzFkhv7JNtzRb5xU_7WmsBgn3nChHkN7brywJp0jbzrqEoUM9QHdQvCO2NJNlf5pR0hAO9hM7iMkd4KCLndXqXQP4lLmLh4405Gc7T9DuMDwmMnj2E9XssgNyft_qqN26-g/s1600/DSC00619.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTsB5YpVnqWzFkhv7JNtzRb5xU_7WmsBgn3nChHkN7brywJp0jbzrqEoUM9QHdQvCO2NJNlf5pR0hAO9hM7iMkd4KCLndXqXQP4lLmLh4405Gc7T9DuMDwmMnj2E9XssgNyft_qqN26-g/s320/DSC00619.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> El Mismo</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHn6W8RwILy-rYufR3KDwxM9_cclTZHKG9paWQf41uDOTZQzmqfvgn717QkpCW2HkToJGlA2YospyY3nRj-c2krGuYJKGKMx0c_CYIiEG7J7pcp5mxE8DCRQZfbVrhObyd_SKRroV-kJc/s1600/DSC00612.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHn6W8RwILy-rYufR3KDwxM9_cclTZHKG9paWQf41uDOTZQzmqfvgn717QkpCW2HkToJGlA2YospyY3nRj-c2krGuYJKGKMx0c_CYIiEG7J7pcp5mxE8DCRQZfbVrhObyd_SKRroV-kJc/s320/DSC00612.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> In need of a "bro" en frente del castillo</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-DjeMWAHlT3RdLbyMD-Nn5wzqGf_U0kxD8QoQBJ-84ok8RyPk_w9CqJcuvzD7x77T_Eb6dCeTheC8zQmDHHRL935I3ptS8n9WekrPhG2tKr5AL0lYS3-cbqncc6HBqu4pygQgEoLr74/s1600/DSC00627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe-DjeMWAHlT3RdLbyMD-Nn5wzqGf_U0kxD8QoQBJ-84ok8RyPk_w9CqJcuvzD7x77T_Eb6dCeTheC8zQmDHHRL935I3ptS8n9WekrPhG2tKr5AL0lYS3-cbqncc6HBqu4pygQgEoLr74/s320/DSC00627.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Nice patina on bronze cannon, golden guide Manuel</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDCF62DKy4BXb-IJUzODD509vPGFJksf-e06pl23B5AI_V79Itn6lIi4yEhRhIkN0gm5b45FDUsKn15cGS0BvxTLXQsk7J2n-hn8bnRl6RfhJnq9esuljnvlNAI9_R4L68XQtpxz4e6g/s1600/DSC00630.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDCF62DKy4BXb-IJUzODD509vPGFJksf-e06pl23B5AI_V79Itn6lIi4yEhRhIkN0gm5b45FDUsKn15cGS0BvxTLXQsk7J2n-hn8bnRl6RfhJnq9esuljnvlNAI9_R4L68XQtpxz4e6g/s320/DSC00630.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Rio Dulce schoolbus, low freeboard</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipQq0Tak-AH2pkDOEFvz5T4Qk1idhVNKok8xokAtkiDPtmrVDLmH2gDYirpD0Y_JxncNsjGZpvThkjeW9eKC5YQCHRFyuYWCGNzNLME04jyX2LV44C6NnWAm-X76ZgajgaJuDB3Q-tjRI/s1600/DSC00634.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipQq0Tak-AH2pkDOEFvz5T4Qk1idhVNKok8xokAtkiDPtmrVDLmH2gDYirpD0Y_JxncNsjGZpvThkjeW9eKC5YQCHRFyuYWCGNzNLME04jyX2LV44C6NnWAm-X76ZgajgaJuDB3Q-tjRI/s320/DSC00634.JPG" width="317" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Mas vacas flacas</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin-fzGq3yS3zHzgCBAusxZIWBgL5gQtIQr9-C11m0UHPXRH2yprGggTqCj7Xk7b_KeOWkqYopcreS5VSwOcKQ8zR29Wh_OKu21yvR5M6gI7D4iqCv0UpBwqhqivnOgj3mf655_8oBswWE/s1600/DSC00645.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEin-fzGq3yS3zHzgCBAusxZIWBgL5gQtIQr9-C11m0UHPXRH2yprGggTqCj7Xk7b_KeOWkqYopcreS5VSwOcKQ8zR29Wh_OKu21yvR5M6gI7D4iqCv0UpBwqhqivnOgj3mf655_8oBswWE/s320/DSC00645.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> The triumvarate includes Del Monte and Chiquita as well</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ3_OuwYkzWZHtmhGR4zFeITPhm522zwVLVgRI1u4gEnjDVGZZlxRDrkEoQZBuZkP51dFGzgpAJcpExKk5zdPgx5C0xlicbGHLoGPVBlZSBnweTglifCAXrZOm7KXyiRhmFFiFDLYAisE/s1600/DSC00647.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ3_OuwYkzWZHtmhGR4zFeITPhm522zwVLVgRI1u4gEnjDVGZZlxRDrkEoQZBuZkP51dFGzgpAJcpExKk5zdPgx5C0xlicbGHLoGPVBlZSBnweTglifCAXrZOm7KXyiRhmFFiFDLYAisE/s320/DSC00647.JPG" width="233" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Taking a dip in the shadow of the freighter</div><br />
Manuel spent 10 years or so in the US working in Las Vegas. His sister still lives there. He was a pro futbal player for the local Puerto Barrios Club. "Back when we played for fun and the love of the game and a little money, not like today." He pays $15 bucks a day for his cab ( a sweet 5-speed Geo Prizm) plus his gas at $4+ per gallon. A ride in the city is around Q25/$3 so it's not an easy living. We spent the day touring Rio Dulce, and the surrounds. The country outside of Puerto Barrios is primarily large fincas, formerly UFC plantations, which still produce bananas, pineapples, gum rubber, and milk and beef cattle. It's lush, hot and humid, carved out of the jungle years ago. We had a ball, a big lunch overlooking Lake Izabal, and a steady stream of insider observation on the local scene which would have been hard to come by elsewhere.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQ1pCRhlnunbMIagoZOyZSctNmK7f7VoBiyClsHl19KPLWfiyc5rT2BjEf-TgmfprKMTiFmYfy54NZRKPTexXAfGazut2BdhAhoith44wrJGq5vAJrxcKrs-0ixEvNC2nLcVwygt2-DM/s1600/DSC00635.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTQ1pCRhlnunbMIagoZOyZSctNmK7f7VoBiyClsHl19KPLWfiyc5rT2BjEf-TgmfprKMTiFmYfy54NZRKPTexXAfGazut2BdhAhoith44wrJGq5vAJrxcKrs-0ixEvNC2nLcVwygt2-DM/s320/DSC00635.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Manuel's coach would bring the team out here to the rubber plantations where they would drill running the hills and zig-zagging through the trees. Speaking of futbal, according to Manuel, the elusive Super Chivos are having a weekend celebration in Xela so as the wind appears to be blowing that way its back on the bus.Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-86292461309823780622011-02-25T17:40:00.000-06:002011-02-25T17:40:36.097-06:00The Livingston TurnaroundThe ferry from Puerto Barrios takes about an hour and a half and costs about $2.75. Faster lanchas are available for a few quetzales more. Given the choice between the slow boat loaded with cinderblocks, rice, whiskey and all of the other things which only get to Livingston by water versus the fast lanchas slamming from wave crest to trough its no contest for me. More boat ride for less quetzales seems like a good deal. Watching the tropical coast slip past covered with palms and dotted with the weekend getaways of Guatemalas rich and famous while breathing the rich salty air and being gently rocked by the warm carribbean sea keeps the vacation pace in low gear.<br />
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The guidebooks refer to Livingston as a different sort of Guatemala populated by afro-caribes who arrived on these shores from St. Vincents. While that may have been the case at some point in time today it is a pleasant beachside town at the mouth of the Rio Dulce with primarily spanish owned businesses paying lip-service to the Garifuna by way of Bob Marley posters on the restaurant walls and reggae on the muzak. It looks a lot like any other tourist venue in Guatemala with mayan ladies in traditional garb hawking souvenirs from streetside stalls albeit here they include carved wooden boats and drums and rastafari t-shirts. Or how about a nice big tortoise shell? I'm hoping it was natural causes. The main street through town is dotted with restaurants, bars, hotels, and tiendas and with few cars and a fairly courteous scooter contingent its pedestrian friendly. <br />
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Hospedaje Dona Alida was my home in Livingston. A short walk from the main drag all of its concrete structures are layered into the hillside above garifuna beach. All rooms are oceanfront with balconys and cooling breezes. My single with private bath cost $20/nite. Clean, good beds, unheated shower (nothing here is cold unless its in the fridge), laundry service available at reasonable pricing, credit card acceptance, hammocks, lounging areas, and friendly hosts, it gets two thumbs up on the schmaltzy scale. There are much fancier digs available but none with better views. It is steamy, sweltering, and probably hot enough to boil a monkey's bum here as soon as you're any distance from the water but on the rare occasion when I have a good internet connection US reports are wintry so let's bake some more and try to forget what lies ahead. <br />
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I expected a lively musical scene but it was on vacation, too. Saturday night there was a brief performance of garifuna drumming and dancing in front of Dugu bar, just up from the docks, which ended shortly after the hat was passed for the performers. Had I been better acclimated (I'd arrived by ferry from Puerto Barrios that afternoon), I might have found my way to the actual garifuna part of town where it was rumored a bar did have live music. According to a local garifuna hustler I met, the spanish speakers arrived during the civl war when it was a remote refuge with little conflict in the immediate area. My guide to garifunology said he'd been conscripted into the Guatemalan army and spent his portion of the war as an ambulance driver. When the injured mayans were left to die he said that he and other conscriptees would dress them in dead soldiers uniforms and take them to the army hospitals where they would be treated and released. He claimed a lot of other things including residency in Livingston by Jerry Garcia who he said paid for his education in the US. How much truth or fiction lies in any of this will have to wait for better internet connections and fact checking at some later date but for the price of a beer it was an interesting yarn.<br />
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Tour operators in Livngston advertise lots of different packages but most require a mnimum of six and although I put my name in for a possible snorkeling excursion to the Belizean Cayes no one else had an interest and I settle for a trip to Playa Blanca, Guatemalas only white sand beach, located about a half hour north of Livingston. Seven of us pile in with Captain Rone (like "timmay" but with an o) and his mate at 8:30 and once the captain collects our Q100 apiece he can afford to gas the boat after which we slide out of Livingston on a glassy sea and zip up the coast for a stop at Siete Altares. Leftovers from the era of active local volcanos these natural pools make great swimming holes. The cool waters of the stream are in sharp contrast to the steamy jungle as we hike the seven falls and although its only ten-ish when we return to the lancha to continue northward icy cervazas are not without merit. <br />
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Playa Blanca is a beautiful caribbean beach with no infrastructure beyond a hut which sells water and beer, an outhouse, and a couple fellows who provide plastic chairs and straw mats included with your Q10 admission. Unspoiled for the time being it is as paradiasical a setting as you're apt to find. When the shadows start to lengthen we hop back in the lancha which bucks and slams it way back to Livingston over the afternoons waves<br />
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Livingston has a couple of student manned eateries where local kids get practical training in the hospitality industry. Cafe Buga Mama (don't say it out loud) serves up a wonderful vegetable curry which healed an upset tummy I'd been traveling with for a day or two. While the students service skills are still being polished they do a very respectable job at a reasonable price and the profits go back into the program. Hotel Rosada is a very cute place with thatched guest houses right on the water. They have a wonderful restaurant as well although somehow my spanglish ordered (by number) tuna sandwich appears as a tasty vegetarian omelet when delivered by the abuela who took my order. Hey it could have been a pile of the dreaded leaden steaming tamalitos the locals like.<br />
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How many mornings does it take to get tired of waking up to the sounds of gentle surf and tropical birds? Trick question but don't fall asleep with your balcony door open unless you want to wake up looking like you've got a case of the mosquito measles. Nothing a little calamine and some anti-malarials won't cure I'm sure but after almost a week its probably time to think about returning to civilization.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZQf58uVuD0N_1vOhmgY1R6-awdylGuB9BH9mYrqIt4xPxbbOpgG0GspWM9ZKbEpcdzOh8FTTGN25WqYuyGSXPawVmnd8Zb93Z45Iuu2xeRYI5lHeCk54r3d3XJUD1DcKeu1z8XfKWh8/s1600/DSC00551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIZQf58uVuD0N_1vOhmgY1R6-awdylGuB9BH9mYrqIt4xPxbbOpgG0GspWM9ZKbEpcdzOh8FTTGN25WqYuyGSXPawVmnd8Zb93Z45Iuu2xeRYI5lHeCk54r3d3XJUD1DcKeu1z8XfKWh8/s320/DSC00551.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Carefree carfree Livingston calle (don't look under the bridge)</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwTft5pOLtGHieXs-q61C3psCWR1d5AwQx6A8PuhQcB8pT6FW85EgA-rrtbpb0qXXHtztvKsmAt7ptaDd-ftp38BC2gPkXWcputGIn4iA0HLZRn-c3vNx_FaIsAvGE2wvH4e22Vpv-Il8/s1600/DSC00557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwTft5pOLtGHieXs-q61C3psCWR1d5AwQx6A8PuhQcB8pT6FW85EgA-rrtbpb0qXXHtztvKsmAt7ptaDd-ftp38BC2gPkXWcputGIn4iA0HLZRn-c3vNx_FaIsAvGE2wvH4e22Vpv-Il8/s320/DSC00557.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Working waterfront</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggQisxbLdsb8Vf0wi8fOTeLcmOBNYJjldisitqYHANOLc4ELXHI1eCo-Ca6U_5qVHzKOZQKiTiwsaHLpcgso1lpf7emUisQdSDW2TBdDO3gtDVOpCfAJrYMVunysjN1sUsY08W8s252hU/s1600/DSC00564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggQisxbLdsb8Vf0wi8fOTeLcmOBNYJjldisitqYHANOLc4ELXHI1eCo-Ca6U_5qVHzKOZQKiTiwsaHLpcgso1lpf7emUisQdSDW2TBdDO3gtDVOpCfAJrYMVunysjN1sUsY08W8s252hU/s320/DSC00564.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> View from room 5 at the Dona Alida</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQG5KElhnUqtTDNUIklkmMIdvN6DUbrnMEUY2BsiKx45AbBCPgn1HGOI31mjhaWq7n7Cc0P-Oez06nWfIEzhEEJGeGmdJnzq3KRQVmoMdWLFLaViVB1OyZb7sv7p0oJgA_DK1ou0bLi8/s1600/DSC00573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMQG5KElhnUqtTDNUIklkmMIdvN6DUbrnMEUY2BsiKx45AbBCPgn1HGOI31mjhaWq7n7Cc0P-Oez06nWfIEzhEEJGeGmdJnzq3KRQVmoMdWLFLaViVB1OyZb7sv7p0oJgA_DK1ou0bLi8/s320/DSC00573.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Siete Altares</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqx4jhwQFaJHoP_aBLZe5x0n5UJsDPtWhaJFDd4lOH_3bhNJ6hUKfK_W8a3NEPTP7vvj6ayIF4IrLDOwhc0aFjL-a0sGIWfnd7W42mnIqmknXURHe7dSHNDvl8MCz2A3CxC-RklbQ7f4/s1600/DSC00578.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheqx4jhwQFaJHoP_aBLZe5x0n5UJsDPtWhaJFDd4lOH_3bhNJ6hUKfK_W8a3NEPTP7vvj6ayIF4IrLDOwhc0aFjL-a0sGIWfnd7W42mnIqmknXURHe7dSHNDvl8MCz2A3CxC-RklbQ7f4/s320/DSC00578.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Shrine where the Q25 entrance fee to Siete Altares is collected</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmJljHv9Y7Be87FiVHYJ1hldh1i7qdHVN7J2hUWgyKZ9UM8js9kXd9PDGa2U5eMBBo8IfzdPtmXz7FwVZi4wiO1KyP6gd1DQDWbz2994UFATtzJT36adwmMU1vuRHieZnqeQf4_cF3WE/s1600/DSC00582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinmJljHv9Y7Be87FiVHYJ1hldh1i7qdHVN7J2hUWgyKZ9UM8js9kXd9PDGa2U5eMBBo8IfzdPtmXz7FwVZi4wiO1KyP6gd1DQDWbz2994UFATtzJT36adwmMU1vuRHieZnqeQf4_cF3WE/s320/DSC00582.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Rare Guatemalan white sand beach, perhaps 25 people this weekday</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs3fOmhBaGqWtP3ZfpOTtcEkawVvHzihyOp5zNYzp4YgdQZI4wiorzykXeTt9tqK5ZK6943pmhR-Eabq-AEG1UPiAilou3zroaa0SgO1qxUdmBG7LdbY3Cqxr0Ok2ViP66SDeuFIW72Fw/s1600/DSC00587.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs3fOmhBaGqWtP3ZfpOTtcEkawVvHzihyOp5zNYzp4YgdQZI4wiorzykXeTt9tqK5ZK6943pmhR-Eabq-AEG1UPiAilou3zroaa0SgO1qxUdmBG7LdbY3Cqxr0Ok2ViP66SDeuFIW72Fw/s320/DSC00587.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Tapado</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-7MksAe9i_BWvnPj7I7H7X89UaBTFufpwt2sYkGsL3pjzbZ1XR25lIDzM1M4I2y8R7-JTYGnJKGeDziibHBwpIw9JxTV51mtkusrvMML-CsMuhDtdrVRcXR9v3oWUaGxFASOxE2N_jo/s1600/DSC00591.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiy-7MksAe9i_BWvnPj7I7H7X89UaBTFufpwt2sYkGsL3pjzbZ1XR25lIDzM1M4I2y8R7-JTYGnJKGeDziibHBwpIw9JxTV51mtkusrvMML-CsMuhDtdrVRcXR9v3oWUaGxFASOxE2N_jo/s320/DSC00591.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Bob watching the indians sell food and drink</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-g_2fJNEjP-S3f9t793i1FCkmJcNxI8dxB_yaAH7o1ZEnfVZg8diqggfYQwqmF3-eZHcurHBbb1T0cUm0sJBB4IO5cJz8gRDqKH97hlntZKlUs9S06QJIqolcrP-1xA1-SyX6YjbQ08/s1600/DSC00553.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu-g_2fJNEjP-S3f9t793i1FCkmJcNxI8dxB_yaAH7o1ZEnfVZg8diqggfYQwqmF3-eZHcurHBbb1T0cUm0sJBB4IO5cJz8gRDqKH97hlntZKlUs9S06QJIqolcrP-1xA1-SyX6YjbQ08/s320/DSC00553.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Delicious tuna sandwich</div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-42637915783653429822011-02-22T09:32:00.004-06:002011-05-26T04:40:43.371-06:00Coochi-coochi, cucarachas, capybaras y borachos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56VnKSUUrNGcIpcqVaasE0b_mXGpqu8ht3ganrVo591FBjGuJ9O8z_DWoXVB0IELkI0Lb1RwRoezyDY8MN7GI8nGersko-t82pxgkNd3Dbqx-ALrKpTrk0lJwB-W8fSlYnhwVYpp4mSs/s1600/DSC00508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh56VnKSUUrNGcIpcqVaasE0b_mXGpqu8ht3ganrVo591FBjGuJ9O8z_DWoXVB0IELkI0Lb1RwRoezyDY8MN7GI8nGersko-t82pxgkNd3Dbqx-ALrKpTrk0lJwB-W8fSlYnhwVYpp4mSs/s320/DSC00508.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Long lonely porch</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYKPJVNHq0gpVNmJLLqv3KPG9ETmALLmeJYSULb5wVj-VUHCN0brCQnDaz9L7E3jlaLuhAEj4g7YXg6r-NCCRc_YJDaAFwSBQNv6_gJ2qZ_IVzZHaN8ZESDM0aTVBSf0zkntEdrhDHhMY/s1600/DSC00515.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYKPJVNHq0gpVNmJLLqv3KPG9ETmALLmeJYSULb5wVj-VUHCN0brCQnDaz9L7E3jlaLuhAEj4g7YXg6r-NCCRc_YJDaAFwSBQNv6_gJ2qZ_IVzZHaN8ZESDM0aTVBSf0zkntEdrhDHhMY/s320/DSC00515.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"> Branding is key</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9dt_ieRb0ViYrX8P81OViGERo0nQwltIA3yTM9iK-GNPi5oHDjQQ9uL7lWiQuTwxjQ9nx0SteZBUi6tXK6WhLDOAvxEYVWkyvJVde3tL4cqDdrVRXZvnUj8c-zQNVIixMioHXrpofQh0/s1600/DSC00510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9dt_ieRb0ViYrX8P81OViGERo0nQwltIA3yTM9iK-GNPi5oHDjQQ9uL7lWiQuTwxjQ9nx0SteZBUi6tXK6WhLDOAvxEYVWkyvJVde3tL4cqDdrVRXZvnUj8c-zQNVIixMioHXrpofQh0/s320/DSC00510.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;">Underutilized<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> palapas</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Did you hear the one about the guinea pig who married the ground hog? Me either but I've seen their offspring and they will not be winning any beauty contests. Thank god it was daylight and I hadn't been swilling beer. Capybaras (don't believe everything traveling evangelicals tell you, they appear to be agouti's) run free on the grounds of El Hotel del Norte in Puerto Barrios. Adults can reach 200 pounds but these little guys are more in the 10-20 pound range. Begging from tourists and upping the ante on rodents like grey squirels many hundred-fold they appear to be harmless but unsettling nonetheless.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">Hotel del Norte is a large wooden structure built 120 years ago. It has a refreshingly cool swimming pool surrounded by lovely shaded areas to sit, eat and drink, while gazing out over the caribbean or watching the action on the malecon. The second story rooms have louvered double doors opening to a wide screened in porch which encircles the structure. There is a more modern wing with hot water, cable, etc., at $35/nite. I opted for the original with 12 foot ceilings, private bath, double screened doors behind the louvered ones, fan, two tired beds and lots of built in shelves and workspaces for around $12. The United Fruit Company's visiting executives used to reside here while visiting their operations and pulling strings in the original banana republic. Today it's a shadow of its former self but with the edition of some new mattresses and pillows could still be quite comfortable in a Bogie and Bacall sort of way. My first visit to el bano gave me time to get positioned with feet spread before the flourescent lighting's starter kicked in. My little friends never had a chance. The combination of 200 pound man, ceramic tile floors, hard soled shoes and a quick tap dance resulted in corpses which must have discouraged the troops as I had no more visitors. It is, after all, really and truly a jungle out there, and there are bugs. From what I've seen they inhabit much fancier places and are bigger on Roatan. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I liked the old place and probably would have stayed another night. It's location, directly on the newly constructed malecon, is hard to beat. A big new restaurant/bar complete with thatched roof and a palapa over the water has just opened next door. On a friday night the little concrete strip next to the sea was hopping. Food vendor's carts, pony rides, kids with their car blasters pumping reggaeton, and drinking and peeing in the park, and me with an almost invisible perch on the porch above. What a great show. Much better than Guatemalan cable TV from my POV. I had a couple beers with a friendly local at the new place next door. Pedro resided in LA for 20 years and worked in the hospitality industry. He met Al Gore (great guy) and Arnold Schwarzenegger (total dick) while working there and picked up much better english than my espanol. He now works for some gringos </span>speculating<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;"> in Rio Dulce real estate as a foreman/translator. I'm always a little wary of locals with good english as they often have an agenda. My new amigo casually mentioned that he could get girls, not putas but really nice girls who would act like putas but not overcharge me. He could provide other services as well should they be needed but I thanked him and retired to mi cuarto where with the insertion of earplugs I was out like a light. </span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">I was surprised that with 20+ rooms available on the second floor they gave los chicos the one adjacent to mine. The pool party started about 3:00am with cannonballs, drunken shouting, and frequent trips to the room for???? About 4:30 the yelps turned to pain instead of pleasure as someone apparently got a little friendlier with their concrete surroundings than they'd planned. Too bad. With the party over its back to sleep till 5:00 when a cell phone, which must've been in a pair of pants hanging on the opposite side of the large resonant wooden boards seperating our rooms, starts to sound an alarm. Los chicos son muy borrachos and don't get up. After five or ten minutes burly man in recently donned boxers has had enough and I'm out on the porch hoping to find the phone and send it to the bottom of the pool but no such luck, instead I shake their doors violently till someone shuts off the alarm after an indignant grunt or two.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: inherit;">As a dirty little port town, still handling tons of bananas and a lot of other fruit on its way to north american tables, Puerto Barrios gets a lot of sailors and truck drivers. What's the first thing they want when they hit town? I know, you're thinking clean sheets and a good connection to phone home and let mom know they're ok but not the case. They want girls! I'll avoid allegories but there are probably almost as many puta bars in Puerto Barrios as there are bananas. I believe that even if they had truth in advertising requiring their signs to show overweight single mothers with less than full sets of teeth instead of hot models they'd still be busy. On the bright side they also have a perfectly acceptable marketplace where I bargain, amongst the fruit, veggies, and room temperature meat, for sandals and a couple of "Pierre Cardin" (si, son reales) sport shirts for my trip to Livingston on the mornings ferry. Sandals Q35 ($4.50) Two shirts about $20 (Pierre Cardin, senor). </span>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-70697196380311069832011-02-20T09:06:00.002-06:002011-02-22T08:57:48.110-06:00Down to the coast<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnQhx_VHXXNWoaC0P0_W-hOqW-3ZOJibLEVO1I81xEKnUC0oFSdLmJZzk2gxDRehiogBT68uAOxKH9i4ZwrlfgLcPE9pxrP_kHuA7y3vYY0C-rD9L_vFAA-Vj89TuX5xqNllT6T4zBCE/s1600/DSC00504.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnQhx_VHXXNWoaC0P0_W-hOqW-3ZOJibLEVO1I81xEKnUC0oFSdLmJZzk2gxDRehiogBT68uAOxKH9i4ZwrlfgLcPE9pxrP_kHuA7y3vYY0C-rD9L_vFAA-Vj89TuX5xqNllT6T4zBCE/s320/DSC00504.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> The big green bus<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxeq3l_T3or9GrJC4yM8yusA5Uhlox0B0GkLgR_Mf6scDlvdZQQEOGkHcCD875N8HgmcdeOXoDKjOIqQuGjwSycIMoG6bWN1J79g5l8qQMJwvdxxXg0hd9hyOfIE8jQ0ESPmK7T_FZLI/s1600/DSC00514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxeq3l_T3or9GrJC4yM8yusA5Uhlox0B0GkLgR_Mf6scDlvdZQQEOGkHcCD875N8HgmcdeOXoDKjOIqQuGjwSycIMoG6bWN1J79g5l8qQMJwvdxxXg0hd9hyOfIE8jQ0ESPmK7T_FZLI/s320/DSC00514.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> My waiter looked and dressed like Uncle Ben<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVk0ygGAjVtySZ87jCjoNgYPcLuEQq3utOyE8G3E1TLPZqlY28KHsA77gJELELJ7DjHvlYRI8T2NGa1Qv4PZLbi0eSk8nZF8e7eEaKZ03JZVv4M9s1zhYt2-uosVSZOf4HifCR2BFsyUQ/s1600/DSC00521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVk0ygGAjVtySZ87jCjoNgYPcLuEQq3utOyE8G3E1TLPZqlY28KHsA77gJELELJ7DjHvlYRI8T2NGa1Qv4PZLbi0eSk8nZF8e7eEaKZ03JZVv4M9s1zhYt2-uosVSZOf4HifCR2BFsyUQ/s320/DSC00521.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Bananarama<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTA7VA5IVzEN91Fd4lfJVuGE9EmRnyUEag-mFWPtR-DYp4_bgEdeMPzqMdNxxl-BCYpzD6otsHPWPZnKQDE6j692sthD-shv8EmEcyizEgfZ-ZhwxuUdkOtjkSrTpJhhS2lagMbdABtU/s1600/DSC00517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQTA7VA5IVzEN91Fd4lfJVuGE9EmRnyUEag-mFWPtR-DYp4_bgEdeMPzqMdNxxl-BCYpzD6otsHPWPZnKQDE6j692sthD-shv8EmEcyizEgfZ-ZhwxuUdkOtjkSrTpJhhS2lagMbdABtU/s320/DSC00517.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Where the capybara play</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU0POoqZmAchngkvy_z7BXrzOiVHg9FbG7ebmMBDLhOXVPqOVpKrZFWWlAV3OYZqzQwsx1Uv0K_2W2GjsCnJkEdWdg_36R8pt1JXOfqVzsj-x1o3HiV57zU3KfjgNhwBxclOimzQ4ZrbY/s1600/DSC00511.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU0POoqZmAchngkvy_z7BXrzOiVHg9FbG7ebmMBDLhOXVPqOVpKrZFWWlAV3OYZqzQwsx1Uv0K_2W2GjsCnJkEdWdg_36R8pt1JXOfqVzsj-x1o3HiV57zU3KfjgNhwBxclOimzQ4ZrbY/s320/DSC00511.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> End of short malecon<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zJhICvsNSHgluCG9tTjh8v8cboW2d8Xf3BwVWXcND2ujoUOqD1x-WWMoPQhqXy00h6r1Gst6szppkbx_LlDjHly5KKGh_zq_tuQ9bvpJrFhnUBghUUYzhI_mEP1tmADLJqkWqvdWbe0/s1600/DSC00522.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2zJhICvsNSHgluCG9tTjh8v8cboW2d8Xf3BwVWXcND2ujoUOqD1x-WWMoPQhqXy00h6r1Gst6szppkbx_LlDjHly5KKGh_zq_tuQ9bvpJrFhnUBghUUYzhI_mEP1tmADLJqkWqvdWbe0/s320/DSC00522.JPG" width="288" /></a></div> Nightclubs who say "nigt"<br />
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One of the last things I see leaving Guatemala City are two young men driving a herd of goats down a city street. It's a six hour ride on a luxurious Litegua double decker Mercedes bus complete with uniformed pilot (tested daily for blood alcohol level according to company literature), uniformed steward, and two american action hits on flat screen tvs (Runaway Train, and some Tom Cruise flick, neither of which appear to lose much without english dialogue). I look out the window and groove to i-tunes. The countryside starts out god-awful dark side of the moon ugly, then turns to Arizona desert with jagged mountains on either side and lots of cactus, and finally a lush flat river valley filled first with cane and fruit and then lots of cows and Guatemalan cowboys. Next to one huge sugar cane plantation is an equally huge and apparently thriving Coca-cola plant. Real sugar in the tasty stuff not our better living through better chemistry high fructose corn syrup (I suppose we should update that to better living through bigger government subsidies for corn farmers). <br />
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Over the six hour trip we lose 5000+ feet of elevation. From my perch on the arriba level of the Mercedes I discover that the huge canvas covered trucks of produce carry passengers in the valleys formed between stays. Some of them awake catching the breeze in the sweltering humid lowlands, others catching some zzzzz's. I can't help but wonder what happens in a panic stop or swerve but as usual I appear to be the only one worrying. No two hour early arrival or baggage hassle on either end combined with the truly wonderful ride of the big bus and the gracious service of Litegua make a good case for cheap sensible intercity transport. Six hours, 5000 feet, $12.50, not bad. Now if you could just match that to a good highway system.Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-83224737360072256612011-02-17T20:19:00.003-06:002011-02-17T20:26:12.837-06:00La Ciudad de GuatemalaAfter yesterday's rocky start the sun came out this morning and things looked pretty good again. I didn't see any flying pedestrians although I caught some kids smoking weed on La Sexta with both PNC and city police close at hand. Am I the only one who can smell that? Had a wonderful breakfast at a local chain called Los Cebollines (the scallions or something to that effect). Don't know why but it seems like all the local chain eateries play US pop tunes in english for background music. I got my pot of coffee, pan tostada, and fresh fruit with granola and yogurt, and then the muzak hits me with "I touch myself". What's up with that? Way too early!<br />
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Did the downtown museums today and put a few miles on the sneaks. Tried to hit the Presidential Palace but was turned away till after lunch and never made it back. It is a huge green edifice befitting the nastiest military strongman replete with the mandatory balcony for reviewing the troops. No president has lived in it since the 90's but they did entertain dubya there when he visited in 2007.<br />
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A few blocks down the street is the National Museum. I paid 50q. (about $6.50) and had a private tour guide who tried her hardest to speak slowly and in simple language so I could follow along (asi que esta hablando con un nino, por favor). It's not a must see but I did learn a lot of Guatemalan history that I was not aware of before. Really liked the part about the deposed leader's head being on display in the central plaza for three days after it parted company with the rest of him complete with artist's rendition.<br />
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Los pies carried me fifteen or twenty blocks south to the Museo de Ferrocarril. Lots of old trains and railcars on display along with the history of rail in Guatemala. Spoke with some former gringos there who have been saving souls up in Chiapas, MX for the last twenty years and were in Guate to pick up a visiting pastor. So many souls. so little time.<br />
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La Sexta (sixth avenue) is a pretty cool pedestrian mall that runs for a dozen or so blocks south of the central plaza. There are both PNC; scary quasi-military guys in four door trucks with lots of big guns, and cute friendly local police on scooters patrolling it but they still roll up the sidewalks between 7:00 and 8:00. In the more modern gringo-friendly part of town things go on till one but all the old stuff downtown makes it a must see for me.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQc3nSboqHBwLaOeWtaseBAQh8XS8Jo_PJ8qZoUpSmOpVxyd-uRiChdjquKmy62p7kJniC0wR3l9JlJc5XQIjplh1gUhkncS2-sLdwKTMf3bDG3YqiYfxK-GZgmaqST8LoHiQR5COpsM/s1600/DSC00478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcQc3nSboqHBwLaOeWtaseBAQh8XS8Jo_PJ8qZoUpSmOpVxyd-uRiChdjquKmy62p7kJniC0wR3l9JlJc5XQIjplh1gUhkncS2-sLdwKTMf3bDG3YqiYfxK-GZgmaqST8LoHiQR5COpsM/s320/DSC00478.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> Presidential Palace anchoring one side of the central plaza<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1GB3-nEYGZqigw_alItZ0Rixa8Ns-i9xoe_yvxt1fQ9jiAI2ZHDibj8vVMzRwFyJ_m6kyrdGTWMrBK2xEoXec9T43LAsVdToACDZ2Ao80fjIhnmFyhsD6Se372Ifeq7oqeNWSegmERE/s1600/DSC00503.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM1GB3-nEYGZqigw_alItZ0Rixa8Ns-i9xoe_yvxt1fQ9jiAI2ZHDibj8vVMzRwFyJ_m6kyrdGTWMrBK2xEoXec9T43LAsVdToACDZ2Ao80fjIhnmFyhsD6Se372Ifeq7oqeNWSegmERE/s320/DSC00503.JPG" width="320" /></a></div> El Correo's front entrance, I'm sure if Pam shows this to her landlord he'll want to do something similar<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQoQ2Tjigxp94M0HhLonNPJAV5mghMh_2261GC3pR5pjhFqcBNme8OMfhkas_Kr2oRESH9nMH4D9FtJcbnj0Ky-MGEDU2ROHO6ntAq8eWxbBMDMnqkEj__zZ_VOjR-lyeuzo1DvjEHEA/s1600/DSC00475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDQoQ2Tjigxp94M0HhLonNPJAV5mghMh_2261GC3pR5pjhFqcBNme8OMfhkas_Kr2oRESH9nMH4D9FtJcbnj0Ky-MGEDU2ROHO6ntAq8eWxbBMDMnqkEj__zZ_VOjR-lyeuzo1DvjEHEA/s320/DSC00475.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The mailman doesn't like to fight traffic so he has this nice pasarela above the fray<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvsiHACLzgnc2eHfV9QntVLqVpCiWm3si8IovRT71jMHnguXLBIZmSP4h8394PigI1WBd-_ukPnjJj_oJn-rRcClZZsv16BP8gkJUd96aklYYQCN6xMFe_FhGrMNp4-FXRKtULNhzda7k/s1600/DSC00484.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvsiHACLzgnc2eHfV9QntVLqVpCiWm3si8IovRT71jMHnguXLBIZmSP4h8394PigI1WBd-_ukPnjJj_oJn-rRcClZZsv16BP8gkJUd96aklYYQCN6xMFe_FhGrMNp4-FXRKtULNhzda7k/s320/DSC00484.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Lots of good looking stuff happening downtown through an initiative to revitalize el centro<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Dh4wuqkuE6W6B8-lYMFh30VLBnFK9Irttqx5o2xAqpVKyYDP0QLlOOoXQdWj_O3iJOq-T7meahsTwqh5v0ZGX5lOCxKhXDq7YnK8L0LSLqo3fkYul_dccFD9uaLbNam-qtPS8nxtlco/s1600/DSC00464.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-Dh4wuqkuE6W6B8-lYMFh30VLBnFK9Irttqx5o2xAqpVKyYDP0QLlOOoXQdWj_O3iJOq-T7meahsTwqh5v0ZGX5lOCxKhXDq7YnK8L0LSLqo3fkYul_dccFD9uaLbNam-qtPS8nxtlco/s320/DSC00464.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Crutch supporting tree shading lovely alcove suitable for reading while doing laundry in one Hotel Spring courtyard<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7op4L24hv7ILbsjndlrnpRC2ginlJ-BbsWeZD3DkSBgRfHRAh8I00e0CEWt5AEQxYTF6JFpp22CUIOJkPZwmw8qR1aK0jfjn-lR7gPksI6qKtyH0r8UfR84k6RVVT_YS-VYwfzeYGY4/s1600/DSC00491.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix7op4L24hv7ILbsjndlrnpRC2ginlJ-BbsWeZD3DkSBgRfHRAh8I00e0CEWt5AEQxYTF6JFpp22CUIOJkPZwmw8qR1aK0jfjn-lR7gPksI6qKtyH0r8UfR84k6RVVT_YS-VYwfzeYGY4/s320/DSC00491.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Born in Philly retired in GT<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHpApwoLVj5TnfPFUmmY8KlX_HbHd-MduXBP7Kr7KafEfDUnucPxokwnyPHVi3H8QDvawFLFXZVRYh1ktTCfSV4mxjVhLYCPcE4OjDa02k1uOY0wZoYj21FD7BbHu-U6q93ko6e2Z1bag/s1600/DSC00501.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHpApwoLVj5TnfPFUmmY8KlX_HbHd-MduXBP7Kr7KafEfDUnucPxokwnyPHVi3H8QDvawFLFXZVRYh1ktTCfSV4mxjVhLYCPcE4OjDa02k1uOY0wZoYj21FD7BbHu-U6q93ko6e2Z1bag/s320/DSC00501.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Ceasar didn't plan ahead and still has to work as an ex-pat (Pam recently wondered why he wasn't stateside)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2XxWO5FHV78lOIjXCNeL4bZoarF3r_CZdyUf4L8DRMRDv9E49qymXzJDAgTTgZN06RllWh61uzyL-aV6mRvv0SP4LDmAm9c8xzHyYrX7JGKx9TZNXhTs_0yUwC7s6c3oomx8ZhIrcYc/s1600/DSC00463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2XxWO5FHV78lOIjXCNeL4bZoarF3r_CZdyUf4L8DRMRDv9E49qymXzJDAgTTgZN06RllWh61uzyL-aV6mRvv0SP4LDmAm9c8xzHyYrX7JGKx9TZNXhTs_0yUwC7s6c3oomx8ZhIrcYc/s320/DSC00463.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">One tough rooster when it comes to fighting dirt</div><br />
I'm staying at the Hotel Spring, two blocks off La Sexta. It's very colonial with at least three interior courtyards and fifty or so rooms. My $23/nite single has wi-fi, cable, hot water, and is a very doable walk from all of el centro. Sin cable is $18. Tomorrow it's a double decker bus to Puerto Barrios and then on to Livingston and the garifuna part of GT.Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-50885081194369250462011-02-17T06:30:00.000-06:002011-02-17T06:30:14.896-06:00Wherein there is a bump in the road to Shangri-La<i>Doctor, lawyer, beggar-man, thief</i><br />
<i>Philly Joe Remarkable looks on in disbelief</i><br />
<i>If you want a taste of madness y</i><i>ou'll have to wait in line</i><br />
<i>You'll probably see someone you know o</i><i>n Heart-attack and Vine</i><br />
<i> Tom Waits </i><br />
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I don't know. He could have been a drunk. Perhaps he was nudged from the curb as the throng pushed to get past a street vendor's cart hogging the sidewwalk. Maybe just fooling around with friends. Probably somebody's dad. I heard the screech followed by the thud and then the sickening slow motion arc of the rag doll tossed into the air and coming to rest in a heap in front of me in the middle of the intersection. The PNC were immediately on the scene. I kept walking.<br />
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Guatemala City is dirty and gritty. I put Pam on a plane this morning and moved from the burbs to el centro to see what life is like in the capital. I look both ways before crossing. I suggest you do the same. Laundry and museums today. Las afueras manana.Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-58997431564039515942011-02-17T05:44:00.002-06:002011-02-17T05:51:08.891-06:00Colonial DisneylandThere is nothing not to like about Antigua. Getting there from San Pedro was another shuttle cluster kind of a thing. Somehow a japanese mini-van is factory equipped with five rows of three abreast seating the outboard of which is a folding jump seat with little in the way of back support (guess who got one of those). We only have twelve aboard as we pull out of San Pedro so we spend the first hour of our journey winding and lurching our way over the mountain's folds to San Marcos la Laguna, maybe a ten minute launch ride across the lake, where we complete our contingent with three more hearty travelers. Last night was a little bit over the top and now its time to pay. Switchbacks and tumolos make for a lot of braking and accelerating as our poor Nissan van carries its burden out of the caldera. I applaud when we reach CA-1. It's premature as we come way too close to being the meat in a sandwich between two heavy-duty trucks, one stopped and turning off, the other behind us and going as fast as our van trying to make up for lost time.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS9HHVIMGGTckZF3ETpD_kkBaZZTJwRSxfBJqakX_xIcS2Su65sYXtQJV82Vf0I_2Mh9W4T0r41dVmDHYHI4kkt3ZPC_2tk5kFK_pDV83eIPIArXddteDtTzpe19Q4vI34jtuSacVZd3w/s1600/DSC00428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS9HHVIMGGTckZF3ETpD_kkBaZZTJwRSxfBJqakX_xIcS2Su65sYXtQJV82Vf0I_2Mh9W4T0r41dVmDHYHI4kkt3ZPC_2tk5kFK_pDV83eIPIArXddteDtTzpe19Q4vI34jtuSacVZd3w/s320/DSC00428.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Valentines day in Antigua<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkXIf2ej3Onmv43D9t0n0qmowOqMfiP5FrYPQHmHzXlCChLUR6dFJYCn1M60E-7Bujx9tSMdCbhbn9vUz7RiLhpvCWb4o1LWMfJ0k8E0K1ljwx9hUFJO17a-vCyhZBgHmYNLahoKYqtk/s1600/DSC00439.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibkXIf2ej3Onmv43D9t0n0qmowOqMfiP5FrYPQHmHzXlCChLUR6dFJYCn1M60E-7Bujx9tSMdCbhbn9vUz7RiLhpvCWb4o1LWMfJ0k8E0K1ljwx9hUFJO17a-vCyhZBgHmYNLahoKYqtk/s320/DSC00439.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>Almost as famous as McDonalds<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3xN-jr_MSjE8cHgVTW7x9vvo8HJCZ34HaNYQkEJJ_WlTcOk_X8EtIiAN2g1XFP2xGuzY-BfRLAUuKEnoWGUAMJ-mD_GoZ8se7xYOfNIiuyLAS6YHqtpnCO7T4s8xHYro_GhLzQ4Xhv0/s1600/DSC00450.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG3xN-jr_MSjE8cHgVTW7x9vvo8HJCZ34HaNYQkEJJ_WlTcOk_X8EtIiAN2g1XFP2xGuzY-BfRLAUuKEnoWGUAMJ-mD_GoZ8se7xYOfNIiuyLAS6YHqtpnCO7T4s8xHYro_GhLzQ4Xhv0/s320/DSC00450.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The most beautiful square in Central America (according to the books)<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCslK0_rD_dAJ8DFBFJvh6Vs6k_G9lysrAhXLa4sDsOQERC6O7LOJO4E4UsM4GaO9TTyBctwI4_6B7WhA71NYa_EDe3GSjxux4WsnRX4RkN3M5YDSN9crRxT2vflqgZwgmVPNEOccOPdE/s1600/DSC00429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCslK0_rD_dAJ8DFBFJvh6Vs6k_G9lysrAhXLa4sDsOQERC6O7LOJO4E4UsM4GaO9TTyBctwI4_6B7WhA71NYa_EDe3GSjxux4WsnRX4RkN3M5YDSN9crRxT2vflqgZwgmVPNEOccOPdE/s320/DSC00429.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>The view from our room at Casa Cristina<br />
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Another eruption close to Antigua has made for a cloudy afternoon. The wonderful folks at Casa Cristina have a room waiting for us with a great view of Volcan de Agua. Antigua is beautiful; flowers, incredible architecture, wonderful food, lively entertainment, lots of gringos and gringo prices. Not why I came to Guatemala and as it is the most visited spot in the country I'll let the guide books tell you more about it.Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-54264762649114410442011-02-16T18:54:00.002-06:002011-02-16T19:05:06.387-06:00<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZJbn6CO4Wyh2QZlvP2eU7CJTxTuA5-YIiv5CNlhuLVMdI7yVs1v90rOSjNo6Vs5nR5i0lVPsks6UXkdftyNsCasWEsXigoelsAq4s68lUP_bmSJymjduNAzN8A_1M0Gv-opefDf3wgkI/s1600/DSC00420.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZJbn6CO4Wyh2QZlvP2eU7CJTxTuA5-YIiv5CNlhuLVMdI7yVs1v90rOSjNo6Vs5nR5i0lVPsks6UXkdftyNsCasWEsXigoelsAq4s68lUP_bmSJymjduNAzN8A_1M0Gv-opefDf3wgkI/s400/DSC00420.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574457391487000594" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiieIviq-1oj66YFiIJveyNqMll6Xra6CNEmVtlWZ8-3Ko_5sgkVZlW70omKbtjRwHBbjAL5UIdW1mud_CYbu4sF5OO2n146dimEYLcwNImYCPAjizAxiOgwIggV4azLSDrOaEgLiY7zFo/s1600/DSC00419.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiieIviq-1oj66YFiIJveyNqMll6Xra6CNEmVtlWZ8-3Ko_5sgkVZlW70omKbtjRwHBbjAL5UIdW1mud_CYbu4sF5OO2n146dimEYLcwNImYCPAjizAxiOgwIggV4azLSDrOaEgLiY7zFo/s400/DSC00419.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574457388805843442" /></a>More from San Pedro:<div><br /></div><div>Chillin' at Nick's Place</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Wine with Dinner, El Jardin</div><div><br /></div><div>Flowers and more flowers</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijk_C7I7YwOQ6FwiwHD9haQ3eUOirt83cPvs17feX7ZKJXJcRJszXsPbuWA2h24lAX8rOcawA-C7NTI4gSi0vq5yaJ4DwcjLgT16_yGCgrPjBzOXPutgFyVb8aOkDQNX0HPMhd48pt2Eo/s1600/DSC00401.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijk_C7I7YwOQ6FwiwHD9haQ3eUOirt83cPvs17feX7ZKJXJcRJszXsPbuWA2h24lAX8rOcawA-C7NTI4gSi0vq5yaJ4DwcjLgT16_yGCgrPjBzOXPutgFyVb8aOkDQNX0HPMhd48pt2Eo/s400/DSC00401.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574457384255248914" /></a><br /></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-25856586497027757822011-02-16T18:35:00.003-06:002011-02-17T05:08:17.105-06:00<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVhshiQi3ZrmVIU51idNKemKkpx7ZlNDqxfs3DK2HpJ_AsHnZ_opsYDno09Y3L6yq2QsT9gx3Z21uPIrti3ARpQxmXk_rhpC8LkOFclDNFBpI6usfhGBIPwNLZnehZsoaVt5ND23cxd0/s1600/DSC00394.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574453450194469522" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieVhshiQi3ZrmVIU51idNKemKkpx7ZlNDqxfs3DK2HpJ_AsHnZ_opsYDno09Y3L6yq2QsT9gx3Z21uPIrti3ARpQxmXk_rhpC8LkOFclDNFBpI6usfhGBIPwNLZnehZsoaVt5ND23cxd0/s400/DSC00394.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQfOfhGHHNoPDe4y05XeHD4NwVN4lsukKkBdTaD9S1L5lJJNmSV79Ie2naBfInGjaUWe_SUjrTbjX8LIYrYGY3RQLzQjUIaLWL0qScgLrWVsu_mfyPXner8f-9AICxKlAF6RCMUjDjObQ/s1600/DSC00400.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574453443820462578" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQfOfhGHHNoPDe4y05XeHD4NwVN4lsukKkBdTaD9S1L5lJJNmSV79Ie2naBfInGjaUWe_SUjrTbjX8LIYrYGY3RQLzQjUIaLWL0qScgLrWVsu_mfyPXner8f-9AICxKlAF6RCMUjDjObQ/s400/DSC00400.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqvC1oNRIFJK8k-8D8oZOQDJz8HFt0QutVO-ACgL1nzd5CdSmPN8aaM3odC3AzY-DYd7M_KIDKE2ujL2-a26xiC09IZXONLecuKGZbmdhv4PHeLrsLomEqgtXt7UCYU-w-7AD_I5BcD4/s1600/DSC00397.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574453440816617266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEqvC1oNRIFJK8k-8D8oZOQDJz8HFt0QutVO-ACgL1nzd5CdSmPN8aaM3odC3AzY-DYd7M_KIDKE2ujL2-a26xiC09IZXONLecuKGZbmdhv4PHeLrsLomEqgtXt7UCYU-w-7AD_I5BcD4/s400/DSC00397.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a>Photos, from the top, Saturday morning after the rain on the balcony at El Gran Sueno.<br />
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</div><div>The bridge to happiness at Hotel Sak'cari</div><div><br />
</div><div><a href="http://www.hotelsakcari.com/">http://www.hotelsakcari.com/</a></div><div><br />
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</div><div>Pammy gettin some rays and some zzzzz's in front of the room.</div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-17499363016982520432011-02-14T01:15:00.017-06:002011-02-17T05:03:17.202-06:00I don't know where I'm gonna go when the volcano blows<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9ek0keAtPVd0nf4F582yoDo4mJuZXl9QVWhxQ-mzY8mw9Hro-2RY4EcEQdh8OIRuyrQdzuEONdnG1_o6hYFHjNDY54xMJie0r5QBSVu3I0EWQAxC9RUZg-DtBQn7hUNoqsoerG-_hOc/s1600/DSC00408.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574450173124844498" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC9ek0keAtPVd0nf4F582yoDo4mJuZXl9QVWhxQ-mzY8mw9Hro-2RY4EcEQdh8OIRuyrQdzuEONdnG1_o6hYFHjNDY54xMJie0r5QBSVu3I0EWQAxC9RUZg-DtBQn7hUNoqsoerG-_hOc/s400/DSC00408.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a>Photos from top:<br />
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</div><div>San Pedro the volcano</div><div><br />
</div><div>San Pedro La Laguna downtown</div><div><br />
</div><div>Bloggers view from room 7<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3UzSuStwFEfrIQeGXOCx8QewRb_YoFKxEl3FptD3-7UWVPut_ag0_FceArdsAQBYOIzlcsiDANiuS5wFSgKG9LLiXqXXprVmPu_Jm31RSHoK0Khd5zXunJ8vbaKZjl9Xay1DD2vptlsQ/s1600/DSC00421.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574450168852120018" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3UzSuStwFEfrIQeGXOCx8QewRb_YoFKxEl3FptD3-7UWVPut_ag0_FceArdsAQBYOIzlcsiDANiuS5wFSgKG9LLiXqXXprVmPu_Jm31RSHoK0Khd5zXunJ8vbaKZjl9Xay1DD2vptlsQ/s400/DSC00421.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAcDFvC9HKeXuFFSlKZ5Ftl2rYiSX2ldsvg5vFS_QILD7CKqhHVstiSZ3AL9vwR_2PByFHGn9LyjeY6MXKDSuFLxtC3QJXKkD0N0tDhehmrlFtmtH1M6-MrIVUXQtUuYo3QVoeTB3ymJ0/s1600/DSC00405.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574450165222945874" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAcDFvC9HKeXuFFSlKZ5Ftl2rYiSX2ldsvg5vFS_QILD7CKqhHVstiSZ3AL9vwR_2PByFHGn9LyjeY6MXKDSuFLxtC3QJXKkD0N0tDhehmrlFtmtH1M6-MrIVUXQtUuYo3QVoeTB3ymJ0/s400/DSC00405.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
There is a mystical magical place in the western highlands of Guatemala called Lake Atitlan. <br />
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</div><div>After an idyllic six days exploring and enjoying all that is Guatemala's second city we booked a shuttle with a local tour operator (that I'd traveled with before) for a direct run from the fabulous Flora Inn in Quetzaltenango to a reserved hotel in San Pedro La Laguna. Using a shuttle is a fine option (they pick you up at your hotel and deliver you to your next destination for a very reasonable fee) especially if you're traveling with a lot of stuff and somehow the almost manageable pile of equipaje we brought with us had grown to slightly less than container size after the artisans market, La Democracia market, Minerva market, Las Flores market, etc. Desafortunadamente our shuttle operator (the now and forever despised monte verde tours) starts this leg of our adventure by shipping us to Panajachal not San Pedro which now lies 5 or 6 miles across choppy water to our southwest.</div><div><br />
</div><div>To compound our woes the perennially unsettled Santiaguito volcano chooses to blow its top the night before our departure and now, in the dry season, we're not only in the wrong town with a ton of crap its also raining cats and dogs (most of them strays but we'll get to them later). The bloody details are too depressing for further elucidation but after much drama we wind up with our own private launch hurtling across Atitlan to a very dark San Pedro La Laguna. Our captain and mate schlep our luggage and us (por una propina, senor) up the candle lit streets of San Pedro to our reserved room at Mansion del Lago. Desafortunademente we are a little late and our phoned in, unsecured (because they don't take cc's) reservation has been sold to another lucky traveler. Did I mention it was raining? The apologetic proprietor of La Mansion goes out of his way to find us another room and even carts our crap down the dark street and up three flights of winding steps, in the rain, to El Hotel Gran Sueno. Clean, decent, friendly, with good candles and pillows stuffed with coffee beans, its not my great dream but at this point its much better than any of our other options and the gracious Guatemalan hosts treat us better than grumpy gringos deserve. Finally, food, cervezas, and fitful sleep.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Saturday morning I awake to electricity, sunshine, wonderful coffee with warm cinnamon buns and just like that all is forgiven and the romance is on again. I leave El Gran Sueno to pursue another while Pam snuggles happily under the covers. Birds sing, flowers bloom, trees have oranges and bananas hanging within reach and El Hotel Amencer Sak'Kari has a double facing the lake for $32/ nite. It's a great spot, not far from the Santiago docks managed by Dan, a 2006 North Carolina transplant. With complimentary kayaks, cable tv, wi-fi, and picture windows lakefront, its within easy walking distance of everything. Dan gives me the key to room #7 at 8:00am and after delivering coffee and cinnamon buns to get her going Pam and I are piling our stuff into a tuk-tuk and three wheeling our way to our next home.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Over the next few days we do a lot of walking and gawking. While it isn't Alexandria Bay, San Pedro has its fair share of touristy shops, art galleries, a busy native community of 12,000 or so, lots of bars and restaurants, and quite a few gringo hipsters who arrived in the sixties and seventies and outlasted the civil war. The vibe is muy tranquilo and we revisit places I'd seen two years ago, happily eating and drinking our way from one end of town to the other. Saturday in preparation for a rockin evening Pam and I grab naps and join the scene about 9:30. We have a bite at a cute waterfront joint called, Ya Hummus, (we opt for a tasty vegetarian pizza), and listen to the sounds of a Brazilian trio who finish their last set about the time our pizza disappears. We hit the main drag to follow the music elsewhere and promptly at 11:00 the sidewalks roll up and we are high and dry. Dan fills me in the next morning, seems like along with such fine cultural exports as McDonalds and Burger King, the good old USA has sent an army of evangelicals to save the mayan population from the catholicism the Spaniards foisted upon them 500 years ago. The new mayor has seen the light and in agreement with your mother, who knows nothing good happens after 11:00pm, he has enacted a curfew. The judiciary are in agreement with the bar and restaurant owners, that the mayor's actions are illegal but hey, we're in Guatemala and sometimes you have to follow a higher law. While Dan feels that they will eventually get things back to normal the PNC (national police) are parked at party central at 11:00pm making sure we all get home safely.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Fool me once. Sunday night, well, really, sunday afternoon, Pam and I have a few beers while walking the hot dusty streets, then a little wine with dinner, (at the very cute and very french El Jardin )then we adjourn to The Barrio, a bar directly across the street from our hotel (some of our best planning to date) for the 8:00 Pub Quiz. Being the trivial folks we are we raise the hackles of the locals by coming in third with only two on our team. Was I a little drunk or did I really think Mark David Chapman tried to kill Ronnie Reagan. If we'd had some sober voices on our team we might have gotten first. Our prize is more beer, just what the doctor ordered. The locals were truly very friendly and were happy to share their answers about life in San Pedro as fast as I could slur them. You can have Coral Gables and West Palm Beach the citrus looks pretty good here. We find a poster advertising a house for rent for $150/ month and next winter starts to look more interesting.<br />
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San Pedro's most annoying residents (well, it's actually a toss-up with the 4'6" high pressure sales ladies, "Quieres pan?" "algo para tu esposa?") are the four legged mutts who have, perhaps under the tutelage of Bob Dylan, been allowed to run free and breed like rabbits. While some are kept as pets (you can see the result of that on the rooftop next to Pam in the Gran Sueno pic) most are unneutered and struggling for survival on the streets. It's not unusual to have two or three erupt into a territorial pissing contest with bared teeth, snarls, and an explosion of 40 pound projectiles hurtling past ankles and knees as the vanquished mongrel is driven away from the delicious garbage at the root of the trouble. Maybe the evangelicals can turn their attention to this next.</div></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-175467160286382812011-02-11T10:45:00.004-06:002011-02-17T05:07:42.876-06:00Una Noche de Paris y la proxima a Arabia<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijJNyXuZNjehcHoJPuAJQQWqiBSVNQyOQa7OLeV6HHTRv5aiuOCPMTl5DvhHdB57MEfSEsuM7cYnpmb-P91l793L-nj_zpwNLt9z5LUEug-7h-Ns1z2sg7b8t4rFjUImsQIHK9Gti-PpU/s1600/DSC00376.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5574460506983621250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijJNyXuZNjehcHoJPuAJQQWqiBSVNQyOQa7OLeV6HHTRv5aiuOCPMTl5DvhHdB57MEfSEsuM7cYnpmb-P91l793L-nj_zpwNLt9z5LUEug-7h-Ns1z2sg7b8t4rFjUImsQIHK9Gti-PpU/s400/DSC00376.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a><br />
<div>Pics:</div><div><br />
</div><div>El Sabor Latino (I couldn't get the four players behind the front seven)</div><div><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzirBxBD9orEmvgq6mw65ZNdfFwoxzvM4HadR1UeN72A7LEdhfeQkRLNAYV2C3Rpc5oB2EQuuM0TLTIXYX68Oimxx4iCehz_Kt63O8PfdY0BbdL4InJnGnNtdU0e2w6KwEtOfQw1nq9k/s1600/DSC00377.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572475697823545858" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjzirBxBD9orEmvgq6mw65ZNdfFwoxzvM4HadR1UeN72A7LEdhfeQkRLNAYV2C3Rpc5oB2EQuuM0TLTIXYX68Oimxx4iCehz_Kt63O8PfdY0BbdL4InJnGnNtdU0e2w6KwEtOfQw1nq9k/s400/DSC00377.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a>Poster advertising The grand tropical festival of love for the first time in Xela, I bet it was a ball.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRxjFOHwu1x1Jb65NnxKYNf20F8kGvEdaRVSVQLCM9AVfV7ZDoHn29ZPfD80tzTvJignvGpaE6HOP88MC9lhi_WNeVZFYqmTi6_iRBxnMW2JWb-5CwEaw-VLC2sFxXu5JAJb3M53Bplw/s1600/DSC00348.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572475691925775666" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRxjFOHwu1x1Jb65NnxKYNf20F8kGvEdaRVSVQLCM9AVfV7ZDoHn29ZPfD80tzTvJignvGpaE6HOP88MC9lhi_WNeVZFYqmTi6_iRBxnMW2JWb-5CwEaw-VLC2sFxXu5JAJb3M53Bplw/s400/DSC00348.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a>Xela is a hopping town, the second largest city in Guatemala, it's full of young guatemaltecos and foreign students from Europe and North America. There are dozens of bars, nightclubs, and restaurants competing for your quetzales.<br />
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</div><div>Wednesday night we went to The Royal Paris (say pah-reees) where we had a delicious dinner followed by the beautiful trova stylings of Fernando Juarez. Senor Juarez has a rich romantic voice and equally impressive spanish guitar technique. Accompanied by a bongo player and a percussionist he had us hooked after the first note or two.</div><div><br />
</div><div>Thursday we wandered around el centro after dinner looking for a dance club that the kids had taken me to on my last visit. We were unsuccessful but gave in to one of the ever present touts who encourage you to choose their venue with pleas of "pase adelante". El Arabe is 1/2 a block off the square and has an interior decorated with minarets and middle eastern wall hangings. Music "InVivo" was provided by a hot eleven piece outfit called "El Sabor Latino".</div><div>Two horns, keyboards, three percussionists, bass guitar, and five singers-dancers-mc's out front.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5rM4dEfsA9CTe817ycw0r2MrTiaSCjPi74SFCnqs5_o8GIHDmgs3nHxY60Ru6kbXqQz92mFy1ql5uJ8IhT0G1U6dLxgI5I1t8CC9IuI5gTHobbUjocg2SevJSQJZbaUV6ZGXf760ZXM/s1600/DSC00351.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572475689604031778" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgd5rM4dEfsA9CTe817ycw0r2MrTiaSCjPi74SFCnqs5_o8GIHDmgs3nHxY60Ru6kbXqQz92mFy1ql5uJ8IhT0G1U6dLxgI5I1t8CC9IuI5gTHobbUjocg2SevJSQJZbaUV6ZGXf760ZXM/s400/DSC00351.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a>High energy does not to begin to describe it. The crowd were salsaing their fanny's off and we had front row seats to take it all in for the price of a few brewskis. We arrived a few minutes before the band started and were approached by two Gallo Girls<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYzgShHIzPrrSykMc-A4iohzc2oUq4zlzG0YsVGim569CBUl6OHyW9F_YTgpWaa41Dydj4pkEObllQifBKI2R-t5Z-I1-I5HkvYnkh5vJrCVr_tzBrY28htT87sUxpxqoR6TQsWMkPNuc/s1600/DSC00375.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5572475683813494338" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYzgShHIzPrrSykMc-A4iohzc2oUq4zlzG0YsVGim569CBUl6OHyW9F_YTgpWaa41Dydj4pkEObllQifBKI2R-t5Z-I1-I5HkvYnkh5vJrCVr_tzBrY28htT87sUxpxqoR6TQsWMkPNuc/s400/DSC00375.JPG" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; float: left; height: 300px; margin: 0 10px 10px 0; width: 400px;" /></a>to take a chance at picking a key and opening a prize box onstage. My first try was a bust, but as we happened to be drinking the proper brand they discretely told me "try this key, senor" and SURPRISE, it worked! Lots of laughs and a new Gallo T-shirt to add to Pam's wardrobe.</div></div></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-74821413836962808232011-02-09T16:15:00.008-06:002011-02-10T08:27:47.944-06:00Reading, writing, weaving, eating<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh080K_4cOn7RfK2OtTQqS5T814z7Hwyv0nG32yd3ZteO3Xc2nWhIPGFZySxlQmwJZwsa8r0m-WU4RvprJIemfR2nbXyyfoDiaSuj0KOFSOdJFi_w0GPLNpf0nHObIt7vNlQJF5AwJk-_M/s1600/DSC00339.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh080K_4cOn7RfK2OtTQqS5T814z7Hwyv0nG32yd3ZteO3Xc2nWhIPGFZySxlQmwJZwsa8r0m-WU4RvprJIemfR2nbXyyfoDiaSuj0KOFSOdJFi_w0GPLNpf0nHObIt7vNlQJF5AwJk-_M/s400/DSC00339.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571823011863850962" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicwCErDSHdu1effba42IZTWf7ISU8W_4zixWLE0ynot8yNer3D-kOxtovS99zO1-NyavJwJ7PWT3hl9D9sxuygGYz3PPkIRs8H89QJRFVOFa2fRWhKYvfaNvYrpB4Rx0FznPpmhQ3S5pM/s1600/DSC00337.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicwCErDSHdu1effba42IZTWf7ISU8W_4zixWLE0ynot8yNer3D-kOxtovS99zO1-NyavJwJ7PWT3hl9D9sxuygGYz3PPkIRs8H89QJRFVOFa2fRWhKYvfaNvYrpB4Rx0FznPpmhQ3S5pM/s400/DSC00337.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571819975042596786" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbc-7qkkp3pNrZVzqH8ipfQFODl9CZ8CmS3H09hz_JBpTMMtP8JWAmoWqDOrwqKHZSVrybUuPW9MUV0tDi4MY8KzU1wookWVZzHoJBg_PT2EyXPsr_XrhP1fKCW1B5w_BllwZ9Q0JTQM/s1600/DSC00335.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicbc-7qkkp3pNrZVzqH8ipfQFODl9CZ8CmS3H09hz_JBpTMMtP8JWAmoWqDOrwqKHZSVrybUuPW9MUV0tDi4MY8KzU1wookWVZzHoJBg_PT2EyXPsr_XrhP1fKCW1B5w_BllwZ9Q0JTQM/s400/DSC00335.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571818854906074722" /></a><br />Monday morning we take the short walk up the hill to TRAMA Textiles, a co-operative of mayan weavers who work to see that their members are treated fairly in the marketplace. They operate a retail shop and a school where Pam is going to try her hand at the backstrap loom.<div><br /></div><div>They sign her up and within minutes she is hard at work designing and weaving a scarf. The threads are thin and it takes lots of time and concentration to weave them into cloth.</div><div><br /></div><div>While the mayan ladies are adept from years of practice it still requires hours and hours to produce the many things they wear and sell. </div><div><br /></div><div>There is a spanish language school in the same facility and I sign up for enough classes to keep Pam company while she works on her project.</div><div><br /></div><div>After school we walk to La Democracia market so Pam can get an eyefull of Guatemalan commerce. So many stalls selling so many items it truly boggles the mind. Competition is cutthroat. Within five minutes its possible to shop five different vendors offering essentially the same products. You can purchase almost anything you need from toiletries to clothing to food and behind the stalls are storefronts with major appliances, electronics, furniture, bicycles, etc. and then between the storefronts are passageways into the interior courtyards where there are more stalls with more stuff. It takes up nine blocks and you really could shop till you dropped.</div><div><br /></div><div>We've had some great food at the little restaurants that dot the streets near el centro. On the 100 yard walk up the hill to school from our hotel there are at least eight. Down the hill in the blocks around the parque are dozens more. We tried a guatemalan style pizza with very thin crisp crust topped with tomato sauce, tuna, anchovies, onions, cheese, olive oil, and herbs. Very tasty. The restaurant directly across the street from our hotel does baguette sandwiches, crepes, asados, and other goodies. We've tried baguettes grilled with beef, cheese and onions that somehow aren't much like a cheesesteak but are equally delicious, another was stuffed with grilled eggplant, carrots, cabbage, cheese, and a savory sauce, also highly recommended. We tried a small local chain called Albamar at the recommendation of my teacher. Pam ordered a chicken and rice soup/stew which arrived still boiling in a VERY large ceramic bowl with side dishes of garnishes including queso, cilantro, and onions, and a shaker of cayenne if you needed more heat. The mayan restaurant at the top of our street, Utz H'ua, served up two Quetzaltecan specialties for lunch yesterday, Pollo Jocom, and Pollo Pepian, both chicken dishes with different sauces accompanied by soup, rice and a salad, the big noonday meal with cervezas for about $10/two. I think I'll probably find those ten pounds I left here two years ago! </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div> </div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-78562879536078823612011-02-09T08:19:00.006-06:002011-02-09T16:14:59.447-06:00Boots on the ground<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhclGkEcm1rZXfpB5qu91RDACXPq1a3YnQMryJIiyz3hLiebhbwJWaKBuif74U_PAf282jL49R7c78k1CRKoldn_v5Fl48_DhjODBdKzm2P8oqQuEY_PUfUYofHK9-InHJgNVKZlb1JVh0/s1600/DSC00329.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhclGkEcm1rZXfpB5qu91RDACXPq1a3YnQMryJIiyz3hLiebhbwJWaKBuif74U_PAf282jL49R7c78k1CRKoldn_v5Fl48_DhjODBdKzm2P8oqQuEY_PUfUYofHK9-InHJgNVKZlb1JVh0/s400/DSC00329.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571814511854375778" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJop4zoOlMFbZVFp3nFsX_3gi3dYbQIFBUGznHxRll7R0ifV3oXfSXam3Te3udf4s1RtETh2hfNpayChV1qD7i0RWoFNLAdxKg2A7RJDurnEpT8M8r7Q3sSmN-14w9BInlEibG8Y-k8Dc/s1600/DSC00327.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJop4zoOlMFbZVFp3nFsX_3gi3dYbQIFBUGznHxRll7R0ifV3oXfSXam3Te3udf4s1RtETh2hfNpayChV1qD7i0RWoFNLAdxKg2A7RJDurnEpT8M8r7Q3sSmN-14w9BInlEibG8Y-k8Dc/s400/DSC00327.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571814503351578370" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMrxORS08GxcvJ8dRe1KHh26BJ9oEvwE-qW47d3_sMyKW_KAfsni2Fl7sd_sLeuoQBXij8IliOeBgUG8OLKmMan_RF8AikTM2hFbYn0J4iQ0HabrpCBExxJ_MnLy3ygcZlxKgXj7A_fmo/s1600/DSC00320.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMrxORS08GxcvJ8dRe1KHh26BJ9oEvwE-qW47d3_sMyKW_KAfsni2Fl7sd_sLeuoQBXij8IliOeBgUG8OLKmMan_RF8AikTM2hFbYn0J4iQ0HabrpCBExxJ_MnLy3ygcZlxKgXj7A_fmo/s400/DSC00320.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571814496030858946" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdkwB-p4sm_C3cQHtR4qy7KNfmdITucLRDe9An_axCP9imfC-VW3pZDOI0yu3C-HYvXkq6uoDq2T3UhKME8r5HLEv4lkyhkJ6pw2t870Gxefga0Lc3CWDUDLjfzhX3ElsQeKlPTVfC7lA/s1600/DSC00342.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdkwB-p4sm_C3cQHtR4qy7KNfmdITucLRDe9An_axCP9imfC-VW3pZDOI0yu3C-HYvXkq6uoDq2T3UhKME8r5HLEv4lkyhkJ6pw2t870Gxefga0Lc3CWDUDLjfzhX3ElsQeKlPTVfC7lA/s400/DSC00342.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571814492645961922" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vZHJCwP2c5KuyYJrLq-kbbJ1RdOCHWtQMVLJ0nbe8U55YiaeYyYkUlDof3AG2nRfGleOfpGKTOyhk0FMre9bDOOCR8Yva4u0FIxRMt-hw4P3XHVrGERNCFH_OSXiH9MJyBqjiosIkNM/s1600/DSC00344.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-vZHJCwP2c5KuyYJrLq-kbbJ1RdOCHWtQMVLJ0nbe8U55YiaeYyYkUlDof3AG2nRfGleOfpGKTOyhk0FMre9bDOOCR8Yva4u0FIxRMt-hw4P3XHVrGERNCFH_OSXiH9MJyBqjiosIkNM/s400/DSC00344.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5571814485217522066" /></a><br /><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Three</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">days</span> late <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">we</span> are <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">outta</span> jersey <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">living</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">large</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">first</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">class</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">winging</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">our</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">way</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Houston</span>. A <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">foot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">stamping</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">pushy</span> gringo, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">who</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">was</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">having</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">fit</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">kiosks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">thursday</span> (as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">if</span> Continental <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">could</span> control <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">weather</span>) <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_34">back</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_35">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_36">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_37">plane</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_38">showing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_39">much</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_40">less</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_41">attitude</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_42">than</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_43">before</span>. Too <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_44">bad</span>! <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_45">Pass</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_46">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_47">hot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_48">towels</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_49">please</span>!<div><br /></div><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_50">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_51">pilot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_52">says</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_53">we</span>'<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_54">re</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_55">fighting</span> a 145<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_56">mph</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_57">wind</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_58">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_59">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_60">nose</span> so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_61">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_62">arrive</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_63">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_64">just</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_65">enough</span> time <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_66">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_67">dash</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_68">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_69">gate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_70">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_71">gate</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_72">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_73">board</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_74">our</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_75">next</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_76">flight</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_77">It</span>'s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_78">still</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_79">freezing</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_80">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_81">Houston</span> so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_82">we</span> do <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_83">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_84">runway</span> de-ice <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_85">after</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_86">boarding</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_87">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_88">experience</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_89">somewhat</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_90">akin</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_91">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_92">having</span> a padre <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_93">bless</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_94">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_95">plane</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_96">before</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_97">take</span>-<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_98">off</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_99">neither</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_100">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_101">which</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_102">build</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_103">confidence</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_104">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_105">yours</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_106">truly</span>. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_107">Guatemala</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_108">looks</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_109">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_110">same</span> as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_111">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_112">circle</span> La Aurora <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_113">airport</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_114">dropping</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_115">below</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_116">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_117">mountain</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_118">tops</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_119">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_120">settling</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_121">gently</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_122">onto</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_123">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_124">runway</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_125">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_126">rush</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_127">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_128">warm</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_129">air</span> as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_130">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_131">exit</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_132">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_133">plane</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_134">is</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_135">welcome</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_136">change</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_137">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_138">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_139">nasty</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_140">weather</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_141">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_142">northeast</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_143">Pennsylvania</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_144">Immigration</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_145">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_146">customs</span> are a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_147">snap</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_148">One</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_149">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_150">Pam</span>'s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_151">bags</span> has <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_152">gone</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_153">elsewhere</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_154">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_155">she</span> has <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_156">enough</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_157">clothes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_158">for</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_159">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_160">or</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_161">two</span> so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_162">its</span> taxi time. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_163">My</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_164">first</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_165">choice</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_166">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_167">first</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_168">class</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_169">busses</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_170">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_171">Xela</span>, Linea Dorada, no <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_172">longer</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_173">runs</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_174">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_175">saturdays</span>, so <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_176">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_177">grab</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_178">another</span> taxi <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_179">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_180">head</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_181">way</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_182">across</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_183">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_184">city</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_185">to</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_186">Alamo</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_187">Autobus</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_188">Older</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_189">funkier</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_190">greyhoundish</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_191">looking</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_192">rigs</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_193">without</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_194">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_195">sweet</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_196">pilot</span>'s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_197">uniforms</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_198">and</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_199">few</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_200">quetzales</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_201">cheaper</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_202">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_203">they</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_204">get</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_205">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_206">job</span> done <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_207">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_208">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_209">arrive</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_210">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_211">Xela</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_212">after</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_213">an</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_214">eighteen</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_215">hour</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_216">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_217">covering</span> 3000 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_218">or</span> so miles. </div><div><br /></div><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_219">We</span>'ve <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_220">booked</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_221">room</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_222">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_223">The</span> Flora <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_224">Inn</span>, a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_225">few</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_226">steps</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_227">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_228">Xela</span>'s central parque. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_229">Run</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_230">by</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_231">Dutch</span>/<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_232">Guatemalan</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_233">couple</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_234">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_235">her</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_236">grandfather</span>'s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_237">converted</span> colonial <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_238">home</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_239">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_240">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_241">very</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_242">comfortable</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_243">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_244">lots</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_245">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_246">hot</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_247">water</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_248">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_249">includes</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_250">breakfast</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_251">at</span> $35/<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_252">night</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_253">Spotlessly</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_254">clean</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_255">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_256">fresh</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_257">crisp</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_258">sheets</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_259">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_260">fluffy</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_261">towels</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_262">each</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_263">day</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_264">it</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_265">makes</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_266">great</span> base <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_267">for</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_268">exploring</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_269">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_270">city</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_271">Sunday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_272">morning</span>'s <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_273">clouds</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_274">burn</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_275">off</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_276">by</span> ten <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_277">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_278">Pam</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_279">and</span> I are <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_280">both</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_281">little</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_282">sunburned</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_283">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_284">afternoon</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_285">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_286">thinness</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_287">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_288">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_289">atmosphere</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_290">at</span> 7700 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_291">feet</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_292">above</span> sea <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_293">level</span>, I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_294">suppose</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_295">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_296">first</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_297">sunday</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_298">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_299">each</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_300">month</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_301">there</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_302">is</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_303">nice</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_304">handicraft</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_305">market</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_306">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_307">the</span> central <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_308">square</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_309">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_310">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_311">make</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_312">good</span> use <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_313">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_314">our</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_315">fresh</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_316">supply</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_317">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_318">quetzales</span> (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_319">acquired</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_320">from</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_321">one</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_322">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_323">several</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_324">ATM</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_325">choices</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_326">surrounding</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_327">the</span> parque).</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_328">When</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_329">we</span>'ve <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_330">had</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_331">our</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_332">fill</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_333">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_334">hard</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_335">bargaining</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_336">mayan</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_337">ladies</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_338">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_339">hit</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_340">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_341">food</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_342">fair</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_343">taking</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_344">place</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_345">few</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_346">steps</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_347">away</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_348">at</span> Casa No'j, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_349">another</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_350">nice</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_351">old</span> colonial <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_352">structure</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_353">with</span> a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_354">large</span> central <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_355">courtyard</span> complete <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_356">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_357">fountain</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_358">They</span> are <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_359">billed</span> as a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_360">contemporary</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_361">art</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_362">space</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_363">but</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_364">none</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_365">is</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_366">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_367">evidence</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_368">today</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_369">only</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_370">mayan</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_371">ladies</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_372">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_373">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_374">grab</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_375">selling</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_376">traditional</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_377">goodies</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_378">at</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_379">reasonable</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_380">prices</span>. <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_381">The</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_382">Voices</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_383">of</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_384">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_385">Highlands</span>, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_386">seven</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_387">sharply</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_388">dressed</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_389">marimbists</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_390">with</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_391">fourteen</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_392">flying</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_393">hands</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_394">perform</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_395">on</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_396">two</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_397">beautiful</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_398">hand</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_399">carved</span> marimbas <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_400">accompanied</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_401">by</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_402">bass</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_403">and</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_404">drums</span> as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_405">we</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_406">sit</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_407">in</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_408">the</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_409">sun</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_410">munching</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_411">goodies</span>.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-14768855176248529502011-02-07T11:55:00.004-06:002011-02-09T08:19:16.504-06:00Two years have passed and given the choice of beaches in the DR or the highlands of Guatemala my wife has graciously opted for the latter. Due to conditions beyond their control we received a robo-call from the ringmaster of our circus, Continental Airlines, informing us that our flight had been cancelled and insructing us to call their 800 number to re-book. Simple enough except that their 800 number kept telling us that due to the weather they couldn't take our call. Is Joseph Heller their CEO? The wonderful little gnomes of travelocity, residing somewhere in the far east, were very helpful and after 90 minutes or so of long periods on hold followed by profuse apologies we were succesfully rebooked for thursday. <div><br /></div><div>Thursday dawns, we check out of the very nice Country Inn and Suites of Elizabeth NJ and shuttle off to the airport. The self serve kiosk at Continental departures will only check us through to Houston, an attendant appears, and after much dialog with his cellphone informs us that our Houston/Guatemala leg has been cancelled but wouldn't we like to spend some quality time in the GW Bush airport/resort in Houston? After much civil conversation we are again re-booked for a saturday departure and its back to the Country Inn. </div><div><br /></div><div>If you're ever stuck in Newark and have a craving for Portuguese food you are in the right place. Valencia's of Elizabeth prepared a lunch that outdid most any I've ever had. We started with a nice green salad, fresh crusty bread and oil, followed by a huge bowl of Arroz con Mariscos, (1/2 a crab, shrimps, scallops, clams and mussels, in a wonderful stew of rice, tomatoes, herbs and spices) for me and grilled beef with black beans for Pam, all washed down with a pitcher of sangria we were stuffed. We had enough leftovers for dinner and enjoyed reliving the experience via the hotel microwave.</div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-40994393286221348992009-02-18T19:42:00.006-06:002009-02-19T18:37:00.156-06:00Geography first so you know where we're going<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywMf4ehn7nXM4bs1i9wGuo2YBwWE8ZUhyrXKRcJOWr5SfeCskaryHI4xqhbomk4fuyNi3syoQuL-mm5KIdHeAgOi_SCVuTJP4I3xK2pH55kFz1ug6XIgE-ObeFjAGb3hcuBOgvIpdB9k/s1600-h/Central_America_&_Caribbean.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 310px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhywMf4ehn7nXM4bs1i9wGuo2YBwWE8ZUhyrXKRcJOWr5SfeCskaryHI4xqhbomk4fuyNi3syoQuL-mm5KIdHeAgOi_SCVuTJP4I3xK2pH55kFz1ug6XIgE-ObeFjAGb3hcuBOgvIpdB9k/s400/Central_America_&_Caribbean.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5304317972079437154" /></a><br /><div><br /></div><div>Slightly larger than Tenessee, south of Mexico and north of Honduras and El Salvador(sort of), the Brits took the piece to the east and it's currently Belize although the Guatemalans haven't given up on getting it back.</div><div><br /></div><div>Political links are next, and then lots of photos and stories.</div><div><br /></div><div>This blogging makes an odd book with the final chapters appearing first and vice versa. Its a brave new world(more Huxley references later) but if you're old fashioned you could always start at the end and work your way back.</div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-4013740825525731182009-02-14T10:57:00.003-06:002009-02-21T08:02:17.295-06:00Why don't they hate us?<div>Unlike the answer you might get from a cocky fratboy born with a silver spoon in his mouth it has nothing to do with our freedom.</div><div><br /></div><div>A little bit of the recent history of Guatemala</div><div><br /></div>http://www.coldwar.org/articles/50s/guatemala.html<div><br /></div><div>http://www.thirdworldtraveler.com/Ronald_Reagan/Reagan_Guatemala.html<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>In a nutshell, at the urging of the United Fruit Company (Chiquita Banana) the CIA helped destabilize the elected government of Guatemala which lead to a thirty-six year long civil war (accords signed in December 1998). During the Reagan years we supplied arms and training (US advisors) which in the hands of the Guatemalan government were used to exterminate around 200,000 Mayan men, women, and children. Over 400 villages were wiped off the face of the earth because no witnesses (even little tykes) were tolerated. Your tax dollars at work.</div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-76389575496950581912009-02-13T19:17:00.006-06:002009-02-20T16:38:27.743-06:00Photo postscriptHere's a link to all the pictures(350+) which I'll caption as I have time. The were all taken with a little Sony point and shoot with malfunctioning auto-focus motor(a common fault, I hear). <div><br /></div><div><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/altilley2008/Xela#">http://picasaweb.google.com/altilley2008/Xela#</a><br /></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-46238058905401438242009-02-13T13:08:00.015-06:002009-03-20T18:35:08.840-06:00The Dream is Over<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0_n-4GKvzFToyNe4dF4N_FQucltBOdocpRM8BwVF_2l2VMbJEvyMle9hQmQtCKgJhF-VuTpwt7DKAxP1jqC3pH3m2Bgtefl1BHEHFAjRNaXeDEYfdLD1ob7ab2gO_d6rgRTtezIbV8I/s1600-h/DSC01776.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP0_n-4GKvzFToyNe4dF4N_FQucltBOdocpRM8BwVF_2l2VMbJEvyMle9hQmQtCKgJhF-VuTpwt7DKAxP1jqC3pH3m2Bgtefl1BHEHFAjRNaXeDEYfdLD1ob7ab2gO_d6rgRTtezIbV8I/s400/DSC01776.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302385919832852754" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYacyyhD44dw2S6XJV4Xm0ek6MS5pq83uhpLCmkBeYQ-AzTAjSarzOjxE7mmMQW50WqTbmtWwTpTnZUrxL1FFXdCtzFB4bEI62jCq8F4M3qs06nlnbDvJP3Jap1EV3kkQl2_V7SQdb0hk/s1600-h/DSC02112.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYacyyhD44dw2S6XJV4Xm0ek6MS5pq83uhpLCmkBeYQ-AzTAjSarzOjxE7mmMQW50WqTbmtWwTpTnZUrxL1FFXdCtzFB4bEI62jCq8F4M3qs06nlnbDvJP3Jap1EV3kkQl2_V7SQdb0hk/s400/DSC02112.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302385588309740706" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JbNaOtOUBRCvb4YAcEl3QRUsUwHLxcqIaEE9RbXLKw_zUNUGnOB5Vqfd8kfng59ct-V3XCOMiqZYyBUF_AgR64jHTE8JGUujtYO_xPPEEuZX0GaNSUBUGhhmlkUOvPmmZOMxSt-IStg/s1600-h/DSC02032.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3JbNaOtOUBRCvb4YAcEl3QRUsUwHLxcqIaEE9RbXLKw_zUNUGnOB5Vqfd8kfng59ct-V3XCOMiqZYyBUF_AgR64jHTE8JGUujtYO_xPPEEuZX0GaNSUBUGhhmlkUOvPmmZOMxSt-IStg/s400/DSC02032.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302385030722851778" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QXmj21o5inb1t0reaGviGMPVMdRdepTFZbHOeRGyhyphenhyphenbT0sYecibVZBdqnucOZuVa3CdbJomUuV__FSLPbMhcpulG-WXAnkfAZJemcKEaW7jUDiAFDLWfOMCOloo64yqrLwPQx1Qvrz0/s1600-h/DSC01845.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0QXmj21o5inb1t0reaGviGMPVMdRdepTFZbHOeRGyhyphenhyphenbT0sYecibVZBdqnucOZuVa3CdbJomUuV__FSLPbMhcpulG-WXAnkfAZJemcKEaW7jUDiAFDLWfOMCOloo64yqrLwPQx1Qvrz0/s400/DSC01845.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5302384194909756002" /></a>I feel like I'm swimming in vaseline. People in the Houston airport are doing all the things you'ld expect, yelling into cell phones, pushing, shoving, all manner of typical type A behavior. I can't seem to get into gear so I casually lean against the people mover and rest my bag on the railing as the natives streak past to my left. I've got almost three hours to kill before the flight to Newark and eventually I wind up in Pappadeauxs for the bargain lunch time buffet. It's $23 bucks including a glass of wine to fortify my spirits and a tip. The food's ok but I'm spoiled, I want the fresh stuff, cooked to order for a fifth of the price, oh and throw in a lot of smiling, friendly faces instead of all these high-powered masters of the universe, please.<div><br /></div><div>"The current threat advisory level as determined by the Department of Home Land Security is.............ORANGE" Runnnnnnnnnnnn! Now it's.............. YELLOW, because you've just wet yourself, ...................oh no, it's worse, check your shorts, it's BROWN! Be afraid, be very afraid, and don't forget to vote. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Guatemala isn't for everybody (I hope). There are lots of problems. It's very poor. There is some nasty crime. The government benefits the few and tries to BS the rest (well OK there are similarities here too). If you go take your street smarts. Don't look rich(leave your jewelry and Rolex home). Don't get drunk and stupid and act like a fool(you just might offend someone carrying a knife or gun). It's best to use the buddy system (although I did most everything on my own). Xela isn't Guatemala City but the guys riding shot gun on the beer trucks carry real shotguns for some reason. Anyplace you go you'll be recognizable as the outsider(unless you're very small with dark features) and perceived as more likely to have something of value in your pockets than most of the other available targets. I took taxis home from el centro any night after 8:30 or so and often times the driver would wait and watch me walk the 100 feet to my door. Drink bottled water and no ice as in most countries south of the border. As much as I wanted to I didn't eat anything off the street vendor's carts. If you acclimated with acidopholus supplements or yogurt you could probably graze at will from any of the vendor's that have a strong local following(they know who runs a clean, ship-shape operation).</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I spent a full four weeks, walked over 100 miles, lost 10 pounds and never once felt threatened. I've been in much scarier places within 250 miles of home. The people were friendly and helpful or at the least tolerant and sometimes amused. My school, with full room and board was $155 week. My Guatemalan mom wants my wife and I to visit next year and I'm sure that my school was taking more than half my tuition to cover their end of things so with full room and board we might spend $75/80 week. Even if you stayed in a basic hotel and ate typical foods in local restaurants you should be able to get by on less than almost anywhere else in the world. You'll need a little spanish but you can get a start with cd's or dive right in at one of the many available schools.</div><div><br /></div><div>I loved my school, El Mundo en Espanol. The instruction was thorough and enjoyable. My teacher and her family treated me like an uncle they were fond of. The garden setting with occaisional volcanic eruptions in the background made an awe inspiring classroom. The other students were fun and very tolerant of an old guy in their midst. My guatemalan family was great. The conveniently located "Ponderosa" had ice cold Cabros and Gallos served with a smile by the friendly barkeep Erik(hard to resist after a long afternoons walk). Oh and let's see you could live very well for maybe $1200 a month. Hey, maybe next election I'll vote with my feet.</div><div><br /></div><div>Photos from the top:</div><div><br /></div><div>My teacher Gladis with one of her instructors, Maurice.</div><div><br /></div><div>My family, Sebastien, a shy secretarial student, Pedro, Julio, Mama Esmerelda, Juan.</div><div><br /></div><div>To market to market to buy a fat pig, or anything else at San Francisco el Alto.</div><div><br /></div><div>My front door, bedroom window, and The Ponderosa.</div><div> </div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-71820599931238922832009-02-08T18:29:00.019-06:002009-03-21T08:49:08.728-06:00San Pedro la Laguna<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElQ-pns8IInBZ_NCWQUpC5HE1woRxtNjRSTNxlM7SQh2_v_NVamJFBVS-0tBxHVV4UN4uqIDGk7t8ysArTrTj65mBq58VASkLg3XtNy7gMUkRbd9FRnSxKylYD93wnueRo4Vj2c4NXMI/s1600-h/DSC02102.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgElQ-pns8IInBZ_NCWQUpC5HE1woRxtNjRSTNxlM7SQh2_v_NVamJFBVS-0tBxHVV4UN4uqIDGk7t8ysArTrTj65mBq58VASkLg3XtNy7gMUkRbd9FRnSxKylYD93wnueRo4Vj2c4NXMI/s400/DSC02102.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300837490519545602" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbtErK667dIK1f24_c7WjHcI8GgGIk61Ns0KMy7LtrmB8JnyKvisCuSOjavwLB2l7kP4pvmCxrk0kw5y3Wy75rseRjk5XW449L_xcSFCE4evAIxhCdwqGNTotXUDW4T-dxiZvnN6QLoA/s1600-h/DSC02088.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbtErK667dIK1f24_c7WjHcI8GgGIk61Ns0KMy7LtrmB8JnyKvisCuSOjavwLB2l7kP4pvmCxrk0kw5y3Wy75rseRjk5XW449L_xcSFCE4evAIxhCdwqGNTotXUDW4T-dxiZvnN6QLoA/s400/DSC02088.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300837170376895970" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXiCrR8319lgjuW_puvFVuKwL2yVjedTLiAaq3ZTJocDt5QR5ONUV96GPQnGHoFRyHw83E9DW6ZtOZpK0aHky-X6gPgN9cwTdxqo_DzwpRdvMXjThLiyfYqmM0E0gpeFkP3Qyx-TI7Xr0/s1600-h/DSC02085.JPG"><img style="float:left; 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margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3XVUwF-0HYVLnmnslP8hTDWmzB2Ii30Si1zK1AegUdKJqNKYe2bcRPl-PjzW3ItKMH5PXrK2VGyngd-PPEOGql1vJIs_riv_4rOrcKTG6-ZLdbkZnybgPeCegilW0pzTE-4Daemext6o/s400/DSC02101.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300833681075873826" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdPNaPTw6T6XCyYMVJfJTy9zivET35llRg_FlR5-ybHCrewIo6V5lRjVjWUZFZB4p-yfbEmkgaXDOjaxP19nJovgAHInVaZ1BYZ8L74nT3G_D66rAv90wXwgCthkcGpYH5Rp64ISyzd8/s1600-h/DSC02080.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQdPNaPTw6T6XCyYMVJfJTy9zivET35llRg_FlR5-ybHCrewIo6V5lRjVjWUZFZB4p-yfbEmkgaXDOjaxP19nJovgAHInVaZ1BYZ8L74nT3G_D66rAv90wXwgCthkcGpYH5Rp64ISyzd8/s400/DSC02080.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300833265872010594" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zSl_XX2qshLQsHzUEnTlvAB6haXd7hYxeVzm0bR8p-jhspsUY0iHm4tF8rvrBbDtHWH7x67SN6ur7d3bb6TGn0QfdxGpSxx9nDiZ_B9MJbHY6A-kTSGTRgTtyQ4woYnNPcTlwc-TunQ/s1600-h/DSC02091.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_zSl_XX2qshLQsHzUEnTlvAB6haXd7hYxeVzm0bR8p-jhspsUY0iHm4tF8rvrBbDtHWH7x67SN6ur7d3bb6TGn0QfdxGpSxx9nDiZ_B9MJbHY6A-kTSGTRgTtyQ4woYnNPcTlwc-TunQ/s400/DSC02091.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5300832907981057650" /></a><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aldous_Huxley" title="Aldous Huxley"></a>Aldous Huxley famously wrote of it: "<i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Como" title="Lake Como"></a>Lake Como it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlán is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing.</i>"<br /><br />The trusty Kia once again carries us over even larger tumolos and up and down the most severe mountain switchbacks yet after crossing several ridges on CA1. It takes us 2.5 hours to cover what might take 15 minutes in a corporate chopper. Our final descent to Lake Atitlan features deep ravines covered with coffee plants. Just around too many bends there's a family or a solitary farmer sitting on huge sacks of coffee beans barely far enough off the pavement to avoid hurtling steel. Yes kids you can take a chicken bus here or a tourist van but I'm old and I'm wondering if the long route through Panajachal arriving by launch might have been less stressful than direct by car. But it's worth it. After many thousand feet the gut wrenching twists start to moderate and Lake Atitlan starts to caress your eyes, ears and olfactory glands.<br /><br />Downtown San Pedro has an older centro replete with a small but well stocked mercado, churches old and new, and nearly vertical cobblestone streets. A few blocks away, near the docks that host the launches from Panajachal, is the touristy center. There are dozens of small hotels, restaurants, bars, and souvenir stands (selling earrings, textiles, flasks, bongs, pipes and what not) near the docks and strung out through an area that winds its way along the shore to the docks for Santiago on the other side of town.<br /><br />San Pedro hosts the largest concentration of extranjeros I'd seen. (I missed Antigua and Panajachal). Many of the bars and restaurants are owned and operated by refugees from the US, Canada, Europe and beyond. There's a lot of Bob Marley mixed with a little Che and the weather, food, flowers, constant birdsong, laid-back attitude, and delicious local coffee may make this the location of my next spanish school. There are LOTS of them here but you could probably get by with very little knowledge of the language.<br /><br />My clean comfortable room with private bath, forgotten amounts of hot water, and a million dollar view from the comfy rocker on the terrace was $10. At the foot of my hotel's steps was a killer coffee shop with Mayan ladies in the street out front selling fresh banana, nut, or chocolate breads and very american tasting cinnamon buns(12oz con leche $1.20, fresh pastry .50, tourist prices and change in your pocket too).<br /><br />A few steps further from the docks another hotel had nice looking rooms with the same amenities, plus hammocks on the terraces, parking, and a pretty garden for Q50/pp ($6.50). The tourist strip is a mile and a half of enticements. The pungent odor of coffee being processed mixes with smells from smoky meats, onions, garlic, and hot fat dripping off hamburgers. Its tough out there but even my stomach will hold only so much. We settle on delicious fried fish and chicken near the Santiago docks served with fresh salad, hand cut fries, guacamole, tortillas, etc. for about $5 a head including drinks. Techno, rave, reggae, folk, jazz, and reggaeton drift out at varying volumes from bars as we waddle home down the strip. <div><br /></div><div>Walking San Pedro our warning cry of "tumolo, tumolo" is quickly replaced by, "tuk tuk, tuk tuk". The little three wheeled taxis purr along quietly on air cooled four stroke gas engines and can be on top of you in moments if you're not vigilant. Many of the streets are too narrow for anything wider, and parts of the tourist strip are so tight that only foot traffic and motorcycles are accomodated.<br /><div><div><br /></div><div>We eat well, those of us with earplugs sleep well, and as always we revel in the massive daily doses of vitamin D provided by that big yellow thing in the sky that we don't see much of from November to March in my part of the world. The natives are friendly(when I try to order a round of drinks in spanish the bartender looks at me like I've got a third eye and asks in native american english exactly what I'm trying to say). It's an idyllic place to spend a weekend or like a lot of gringos you might just forget to leave at all.</div><div><br /></div><div>Breakfast Sunday morning is about $4/each but we don't eat lightly. Sergio has "the Gringo", eggs, bacon, fried potatoes, toast, jam, and tortillas. I opt for the "Mexican", a soft flour tortilla wrapped around scrambled eggs, beans, rice, and queso with fresh pico de gallo on the side, Gladis is more sensible and has homemade granola with fruit and yogurt. Topped off by a nice dose of lakeside ambience and delicious fresh coffee, Cafe La Puerta makes a good launch pad for our return trip to Xela. </div><div><br /><div><div>The photos (as always clickable for much larger views) are, from the top :</div><div><br /></div><div>After hitting bottom looking across to San Pedro at three o'clock</div><div><br /></div><div>Two views from the rocker outside my hotel room. To give you an idea of the scale those little light colored patches over the umbrella and next to the thatched roof are a good sized town on the opposite shore.</div><div><br /></div><div>Launches arriving from Panajachal, Q25 with a little espanol or whatever they can get away with for the unexpecting.</div><div><br /></div><div>Tuk tuk and a bar from the coffee shop under my hotel. The Pana dock is just down the hill.<br /><br />Tasty beans drying in the sun soon to be roasted, brewed and cupped for your enjoyment</div><div><br /></div><div>Breakfast view from Cafe La Puerta</div><div><br /></div><div>Its not Florida but the oranges are ready for picking and no grumpy old people are in sight</div><div><br /></div><div>Fried fish near the Santiago dock</div><div><br /></div><div>Many hands make light work but not when you're freeing a huge boat thats been high on the mud for three months having an engine overhaul. You should have heard the cheer when it finally floated.</div><div><br /></div><div>Playing futbol with his brothers and juggling with his feet for the camera</div><div><br /></div><div>My teacher/guide Gladis with her husband/driver Sergio</div><div><br /></div><div>Yours truly on the roof of the hotel looking american in a shirt which combines beer and nascar<br /><br />The facts http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lake_Atitl%C3%A1n<br /><br />The fun http://www.xelawho.com/pedro.htm</div></div></div></div></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-33092937959178615982009-02-05T20:13:00.012-06:002009-02-15T18:03:53.825-06:00Chapter 13 in which we eat our way to the coast and back<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5tx6bHo9Hd0qxxF7m9NHbDO4PJHd2TwShAQMxKXNZ10eSxGMcPt2XWUzbcSAVrRGvxIxKvo1PdkYFXNMleSEPWqx6NcFWdKDxmBLWhS3nnqeKezW4KZYt-Ilrr03N1DYGjF8YSanrO1k/s1600-h/DSC01945.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299794416301940146" style="FLOAT: left; 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MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirbla4zAUhnWHIZ4xfCsdksFLPXm6QZ8lwmJxvvFF3zqkSY-v7qwu3C2c7GpOEAhOqRAVxm9LVyWMEvebbvY5V1qPIPyFZz8B5h_A15W6WzKMIbkvpGrR19Q32mZVIR14Atx2zoAo1xjw/s400/DSC01955.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Ibwp9CDzhkjWmynwLn7doRyxMWoBRltgZqRreix2UT_jT8wqrhK667cG47L969VxDfjsbLOzWNQMsU2AROQdP6pYV4dqBHcsVD3PHIdSZPruf8VoAZ0edA4rebiFIyynjuwznRDJsGw/s1600-h/DSC01961.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299792651136458130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0Ibwp9CDzhkjWmynwLn7doRyxMWoBRltgZqRreix2UT_jT8wqrhK667cG47L969VxDfjsbLOzWNQMsU2AROQdP6pYV4dqBHcsVD3PHIdSZPruf8VoAZ0edA4rebiFIyynjuwznRDJsGw/s400/DSC01961.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNC0cO80bqdcqiK61xWQl9ztIX4hKN6DEgrxyJMeH-gaWn2QqDNJZDSeGBbUX9D20KIibN9JjIgqhyphenhyphenxl7-qAOCrT4iRtmVqROPjrohwtjQWMm0vs2Af8PcM6rtO91TXAZA9F478vstw3s/s1600-h/DSC01974.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299791974425439778" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNC0cO80bqdcqiK61xWQl9ztIX4hKN6DEgrxyJMeH-gaWn2QqDNJZDSeGBbUX9D20KIibN9JjIgqhyphenhyphenxl7-qAOCrT4iRtmVqROPjrohwtjQWMm0vs2Af8PcM6rtO91TXAZA9F478vstw3s/s400/DSC01974.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQMYBA75uwwqhKrfgfdX72PTj9BQZOgbH9zcfO7vm5Ei2IpSEQCeGSS1DE6sPypCPfXdy0NwoYNmFKoVxDymiEUwl4M1QDzVMBO9O9SzubZ0tpTFVedC4qhAaGXwMX7js6bD4Bm8Lze-E/s1600-h/DSC01985.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299791479950170210" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQMYBA75uwwqhKrfgfdX72PTj9BQZOgbH9zcfO7vm5Ei2IpSEQCeGSS1DE6sPypCPfXdy0NwoYNmFKoVxDymiEUwl4M1QDzVMBO9O9SzubZ0tpTFVedC4qhAaGXwMX7js6bD4Bm8Lze-E/s400/DSC01985.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfiCYsr28FdJ2CniZT6kJHwZljHxvfjBeGZtNExyfoQiVV8U7fSuqoOun0cJDNh9TDGJgsGcwgFAjlc4OpyaKqKxv3RFjDT9GTilBVCVCo_y8eocWjF3i3sZRF7XBcFz1ACxY_raWQxyA/s1600-h/DSC01987.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299790709294373826" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfiCYsr28FdJ2CniZT6kJHwZljHxvfjBeGZtNExyfoQiVV8U7fSuqoOun0cJDNh9TDGJgsGcwgFAjlc4OpyaKqKxv3RFjDT9GTilBVCVCo_y8eocWjF3i3sZRF7XBcFz1ACxY_raWQxyA/s400/DSC01987.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRW4HcopSJ10SfXeIO-fT_GS51IQ8oQJEifk3J7VSf1CCZn_Zmse8yyS5FXApPG_TNUow695bpq1ENWtvCOI7e2_ikbpQqFoQL7B-WwNc5yBl9ASlX0RLRdhBzxTWuj4uaRJaNhvypUU/s1600-h/DSC01992.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299790297767318338" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqRW4HcopSJ10SfXeIO-fT_GS51IQ8oQJEifk3J7VSf1CCZn_Zmse8yyS5FXApPG_TNUow695bpq1ENWtvCOI7e2_ikbpQqFoQL7B-WwNc5yBl9ASlX0RLRdhBzxTWuj4uaRJaNhvypUU/s400/DSC01992.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQ3m4qGYp5886zMxZKL2myoKyqE47PacWzroMdZOslWJd0_2E0Pk3EY5h9FdtdeuwTK2DYIe7e9fUqye8q1kVbcHNFFV2oyNEXLeSyKoacbpFerGIfGilipQrujry07-Vy3nMdas-NYA/s1600-h/DSC01995.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299789910589425970" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGQ3m4qGYp5886zMxZKL2myoKyqE47PacWzroMdZOslWJd0_2E0Pk3EY5h9FdtdeuwTK2DYIe7e9fUqye8q1kVbcHNFFV2oyNEXLeSyKoacbpFerGIfGilipQrujry07-Vy3nMdas-NYA/s400/DSC01995.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3snk3NcyloKMx_WiZqeEfbQiNHcZlt6tKp6ddSD8l3Qct8QHA0ihYlYBa60bJq1tmbNRLinwK-gZbMnjXiErKc2oCiQxChmfLx9CbpV01GiWWDkFQIoXLiyiNDw9Rs6Vh1J2Em1PspI/s1600-h/DSC02008.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299789438573972194" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3snk3NcyloKMx_WiZqeEfbQiNHcZlt6tKp6ddSD8l3Qct8QHA0ihYlYBa60bJq1tmbNRLinwK-gZbMnjXiErKc2oCiQxChmfLx9CbpV01GiWWDkFQIoXLiyiNDw9Rs6Vh1J2Em1PspI/s400/DSC02008.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkCKaZuJ2GWP_YFFu0VPZG9cKGPnKZ1ZSLOyfFWwN_aXNI1PHP6x3hOO3_iMM0Q9FBD_QDKhOF54_ymy_PwOAo2xi3q4PoNyIl-QUmI_QRllr-sHnApRTCWgZgojkmeYzdpK1tQpI7V78/s1600-h/DSC02024.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299789118621068514" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkCKaZuJ2GWP_YFFu0VPZG9cKGPnKZ1ZSLOyfFWwN_aXNI1PHP6x3hOO3_iMM0Q9FBD_QDKhOF54_ymy_PwOAo2xi3q4PoNyIl-QUmI_QRllr-sHnApRTCWgZgojkmeYzdpK1tQpI7V78/s400/DSC02024.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2BpzeRSQ84KUPB9VlSPz0qcgfryuFaHT8tFiJ4S0-oMoYRgW_NaCyeDt52mSDKKSN05iwE2rR3WNrfjSTXBQtYOoZnY51zb3S4XeqzhHuGGQK_Uh4O4mjJw6GA5tC00e3pqjIa3wmzKU/s1600-h/DSC02030.JPG"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5299788592136102130" style="FLOAT: left; MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 400px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 300px" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2BpzeRSQ84KUPB9VlSPz0qcgfryuFaHT8tFiJ4S0-oMoYRgW_NaCyeDt52mSDKKSN05iwE2rR3WNrfjSTXBQtYOoZnY51zb3S4XeqzhHuGGQK_Uh4O4mjJw6GA5tC00e3pqjIa3wmzKU/s400/DSC02030.JPG" border="0" /></a>It´s been a busy week. Monday night was a birthday party Guate style for the school director's daughter, her 21st. Tasty food, a huge cake, feliz cumpleano a ti, to the tune of happy birthday to you. Then the traditional dousing of each other with confetti and the smashing of blown-out, colored eggshells on anyone's head who wasn't looking.<br /><br />Tuesday was my last day of espanol in the class room now it's time to practice it with some trips here and there.<br /><br />Wednesday morning at 8:00 guate time (more like 9:00) La Directora (my teacher), her husband and I pile into the Kia Sephia 5 speed and head for the coast. Our first stop is San Felipe a small town overshadowed by a very active volcano. Gladis picks up a new swimsuit at el mercado and we buy some snacks. Chicharone(deep fried pork fat/skin), carnitas(tasty semi dried cooked pork), moronga (yummy blood sausage with onions), tortillas, and limon to enhance the flavor. We snack in the park where we can watch the volcano blowing it's lid in the distance. I escape the chicharone with only a taste, knowing the likely after-effect but the carnitas and moronga are delicious and a fine snack is had by all. <div></div><div>Next stop is Retalhuleu an upscale town with palms lining the main boulevard ala Los Angeles. Sergio (Gladis' husband) needs to replace some forgotten meds at Dr. Simi's a generic pharmacy where no prescription is required. It's convenient and inexpensive. Sponsored in part by Rigoberta Menchu's nobel prize winnings.<br /><br />Onward to Takalik Abaj, a mayan ruin dating to 800 years B.C. Lots of stone statues to various Mayan dieties. A very pregnant fertility goddess, an owl for wisdom, a jaguar with a warrior inside to signify his strength and agility, and many more pieces that are more than 2500 years old. Pretty incredible. A nice tour with our own guide lasts an hour and a half and then its back in the car.<br /><br />We continue our long descent from 7700 feet to sea level. At the start we were flanked by the now familiar patchwork quilt of garden plots but as we descend they give way to coffee plantations followed by huge stands of gum trees and finally endless fields of bananas and plantains. A sign for Chiquita Bananas tells us the United Fruit Company must still wield influence. </div><div></div><div>None of the small towns and cities we pass through have police to enforce the speed limit, instead they have tumolos, large nasty speed bumps that defy passage at more than a crawl. They're effective but not always well marked and at 60 mph they could very well send the Kia to an early grave. We are all vigilant and often times a chorus of "tumolo! tumolo! tumolo!" is followed by screeching brakes and another mild jarring as we reduce speed.<br /><br />We make another stop in Coatepeque, a busy lowland city about 50 kilometers from the Mexican border, where I pick up sandals for the shore. Q69 (about $10) and we're off again. We've scheduled lunch at a carniceria named La Illusion in Las Palmas. It's a good sized mostly open building right next to the highway. We choose the piece of hanging beef that looks best to us and the fourteen year old grandson of the owner deftly butterflies it with the skill of a journeyman butcher. You order by the pound and our two pounds are quickly seasoned and marinated in pineapple and lemon juice with other savory ingredients. Placed over wood coals on an open hearth it starts sizzling and before long our table is filled with bowls of salsas, one a fresh mix of jalapenos and onions in lime juice, frijoles, tortillas, guacamole, small tender grilled onions, and a heaping platter of steaming meat. Absolutely delicious and at $5 a head including sodas and cervezas it looks like a certified bargain to me.<br /><br />Back in the Kia and another 45 minutes down the road we park in the dusty fishing village of Tilapa. From here its necessary to take a launch up the river through the mangroves, storks and pelicans another ten minutes or so to a landing in Tilapita. A long strip of beach separated from the mainland by a tidal river, it has no cars, streets of sand, lots of beach homes that won't be busy till Easter, and a couple small hotels. We're booked at the Pacific Mar, a low block and concrete structure, with electricity, running water, and a small restaurant. My single room with private bath and a good bed is $8 a night and I can hear the surf pounding as I unpack. It's hot by Xela standards and the 500' walk to the ocean is all thats necessary to get psyched for my first ever swim in the pacific. The temperature of the water is perfect, the surf agreeable (3-4' rollers), and there isn't another soul in sight except the clean-up crew consisting of one dog and two pigs.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div>Unbelievably we're hungry again after a couple hours splashing in the surf and walking the deserted beach. The owner's wife whips up a tasty supper of huevos and frijoles with tortillas for my companions, shrimp with rice, papas fritas and salad for me. There are hammocks hanging under a palapa for shade and it makes a perfect place to use up the daylight reading and listening to the surf.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div>In the morning we are somehow hungry again and so we have a light breakfast of fried fish, rice, tortillas and frijoles and then more sun, surf and sand to work it off. Time flies when you're having fun and so all too soon its time to get ready for the three hour ride home.</div><div></div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div>I'm not hungry BUT I had mentioned in class that I wanted to try ceviche while I was in Guatemala and before we load up for the trip home three bowls appear brimming with shrimp in lime juice with tomatoes, onions, cilantro, and some crackers on the side for good measure. Hey, there's no fat in sight and its delicious so I'll skip dinner in Xela and walk instead.</div><div></div><div></div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div>Although I don't want to think about food for a day or two Gladis has lots of hungry students and family members in Xela to think of. We return to Tilapa and walk to the docks where she picks up eleven pounds of fresh fish (we watch as it's carried from the small fishing boats to the merchants stands) for about $14.</div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-53938138973616470072009-02-02T16:34:00.015-06:002009-02-06T20:01:01.001-06:00Another Sunday in the Parques<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32nfJ8sMX5jyEF0eVYP2BObxCO01Un0rnuOzoHmjaKILuXOau_jX4DQhsbY9yvwWHe8wDRbsHlk7Rpn87Ug18f8dBhZhE88iCbwdYTeGwDcceUPNqn3PnMg1SZF-eWVWZAFnZfNV1jAI/s1600-h/107.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg32nfJ8sMX5jyEF0eVYP2BObxCO01Un0rnuOzoHmjaKILuXOau_jX4DQhsbY9yvwWHe8wDRbsHlk7Rpn87Ug18f8dBhZhE88iCbwdYTeGwDcceUPNqn3PnMg1SZF-eWVWZAFnZfNV1jAI/s400/107.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298341305072325938" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKm0J2ReHl57zKY9kqBcBCZOrQiLn3qeeWtwpTEb8qvoIOL7gfj24s7ISVsz9zsg4GCH_9FSsympFq3hQ8x2ornkXPXVmL2vme09Ih7zxQNDorrQq1gfDJyjUwzbtyzpF0Jj_T3zJMelQ/s1600-h/120.JPG"><img style="float:left; 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margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgm_So2yV9pEigQ86n7jMcLtLdonsn0bIZeiEBo06qkBAZTJA3p13Sld1q6tsMyt67AJ_pcH7_1DA0b8QbffxkpDS0g2MGj1zrg7uR4ZNUTCEQCkJle8v-oMi5p8uQeeZOkWgc3skd2Rho/s400/090.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298339312875662434" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uXKE3xcGi-2twCEGhDDCYfedvGkQqGuL95FVSEYlm9Wbx2wxX927Otz6BIaAHcpuT-4djCUbnuDrk2c0n42YUEc5HhIDhrKRv-KoTYMdhrzrQ7ebAo7Z1MxrjYWnM8HXs9LadGgVqK0/s1600-h/113.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uXKE3xcGi-2twCEGhDDCYfedvGkQqGuL95FVSEYlm9Wbx2wxX927Otz6BIaAHcpuT-4djCUbnuDrk2c0n42YUEc5HhIDhrKRv-KoTYMdhrzrQ7ebAo7Z1MxrjYWnM8HXs9LadGgVqK0/s400/113.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298339099786566386" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMJUoaxnH_ui8MjP1D-GVj36DwcFCy_c4hYbSFDakBIANMBWcYjUImSKmAVme_GWHX9Wetl9smST07F-8f_5xHl-Ql51tsjpvW3oeuvKsnNzRvnQRkJyWqHIK6NbFYfIIMP1hHirl63A/s1600-h/111.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEMJUoaxnH_ui8MjP1D-GVj36DwcFCy_c4hYbSFDakBIANMBWcYjUImSKmAVme_GWHX9Wetl9smST07F-8f_5xHl-Ql51tsjpvW3oeuvKsnNzRvnQRkJyWqHIK6NbFYfIIMP1hHirl63A/s400/111.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298338818874253410" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_sMjJxpwSmHXrKBTmlKA9saNInEYyfyFlU7WjFmHDOzVAXCjXc0Ho9JGUdWIxd5UVs7rfkRKEKvXVwcmRqPwu8oT5qCqEwO7r6thkKurL2dtEA8Xde6aUXneEX8dzOZI9TpJgUMUwzc/s1600-h/109.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjo_sMjJxpwSmHXrKBTmlKA9saNInEYyfyFlU7WjFmHDOzVAXCjXc0Ho9JGUdWIxd5UVs7rfkRKEKvXVwcmRqPwu8oT5qCqEwO7r6thkKurL2dtEA8Xde6aUXneEX8dzOZI9TpJgUMUwzc/s400/109.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298338463814113394" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk6UfnUZDj2RPgXXpldiShLXGKKlHfaBaMmY5jzyt-nMcEf5HjRkzEqUELHQ20rSC4jPX74lGE7WyO976eAKBYu1Y_S8a1vA8Hls87eLnRPWglUwWJOcQzXHvapIbIV7gje2LWPAa9-8I/s1600-h/095.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk6UfnUZDj2RPgXXpldiShLXGKKlHfaBaMmY5jzyt-nMcEf5HjRkzEqUELHQ20rSC4jPX74lGE7WyO976eAKBYu1Y_S8a1vA8Hls87eLnRPWglUwWJOcQzXHvapIbIV7gje2LWPAa9-8I/s400/095.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298337957462830930" /></a><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBc3v3oiUlZIWkvP6ZFPi2toEG-bK9Rht8GW9JH07cQtXon7KH5BLus78SmD_QENZNVEtF-ZS0jta0SsSWLiB87vrNOa8melheqehuEnPTE8ojnjBWH5FVtZVgmIIu0gIF705TFTRKpIA/s1600-h/093.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBc3v3oiUlZIWkvP6ZFPi2toEG-bK9Rht8GW9JH07cQtXon7KH5BLus78SmD_QENZNVEtF-ZS0jta0SsSWLiB87vrNOa8melheqehuEnPTE8ojnjBWH5FVtZVgmIIu0gIF705TFTRKpIA/s400/093.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5298337720648935506" /></a><br />Gave Mama Esmerelda the day off cooking, took my books, and headed out for a sunday wandering the city. First stop Baviera Cafe, small fruit plate (enough for two), cafe con leche, and a quiet table with nice jazz playing in the background. Great place for a little homework. I've learned to locate myself away from a group of ex-pats who congregate there for a regular sunday morning bitchfest. Blah, blah, blah, the us govt sux, the guate people are ignorant, yada yada. Ugly americans with a capital ugh. Lifes too short and the weathers too fine so out into the calle. Here are a few of yesterdays scenes.<div><br /></div><div>Opera at the theater in February.</div><div><br /></div><div>Flowers for sale near the cemetario.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Always seems to be some saints day replete with fireworks and a parade.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Sleeping it off.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Sanitarios at the central parque Q1 gets you some tp and a clean attended restroom. Bring your own seat however.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Skaters feel persecuted in Xela, too.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Teeny tiny truck.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Shine Mister?<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>Artesenias peddle their wares the first sunday each month.<br /></div>Alhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06179654583870078992noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4795972580917430960.post-15983470762647841312009-01-31T16:26:00.018-06:002009-02-21T10:27:21.313-06:00Welcome to the Jungle<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEZ4iVxxod5YMQQd4VaRydNIKn-8Hx6HbrPyFlGbKaFHMwniEI3xeJ5nuDXSfvFGheKF1kIuD3xrrY_ADwoWTHw5zTuWDyOoMvz4ZAdpXp72e264IdEQpB3_V4IXdop0ibCJiLq8uYvI/s1600-h/DSC01865.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 400px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297597229916299154" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsEZ4iVxxod5YMQQd4VaRydNIKn-8Hx6HbrPyFlGbKaFHMwniEI3xeJ5nuDXSfvFGheKF1kIuD3xrrY_ADwoWTHw5zTuWDyOoMvz4ZAdpXp72e264IdEQpB3_V4IXdop0ibCJiLq8uYvI/s400/DSC01865.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br />Another beautiful saturday on the road. We left Xela around 9:00 and headed up into the mountains southwest of the city. Crested the ridge at about 10,000 feet and slid down into the town of San Martin Sacatepequez. Switchback after switchback our Mitsubushi minivan (diesel, 5 speed, piloted by the talented and knowledgeable Josh, from Monte Verde tours, who arrived here for a short visit nine years ago) carried nine of us down to about 4000 feet and the Santa Anita Finca. They're a cooperative of former guerillas from the civil war who produce organic coffee and bananas on a little more than 100 acres of steep hillside. The folds (skirt) of the mountain are difficult to cultivate and the labor is all done by hand.<br /><br />First we had a presentation detailing the history of the Santa Anita Finca. How it came to be and how they produce and market their production. Next a tour through coffee bushes shaded by banana trees and a very strenuous hike down a trail of switchbacks to the jungle floor. After a brief rest at a pool beneath a waterfall it was an old guy killing climb back up to the farm community. The women of the cooperative served us a delicious lunch of ground beef patties mixed with chilis and onions prior to cooking, lovely fresh veggies, rice, fried potatoes, tasty juice, and a nice cup of coffee.<br /><br />Their website has a wealth of information about their community and their history. I hope you´ll take a few minutes to look it over.<br /><br />www.santaanitafinca.com<br /><br />The first shot is San Martin, the very colorful area in the background is a cemetary. They're about 9500 feet above sea level and are known for their potato production. It's the dry season and the unirrigated plots lay fallow till May.<br /><br />The flower near the bottom is a poinsetta, I believe.<br /><br />The last shot is what was left of me after the hike.<br /><br />You can click on all the photos in the blog for much larger files.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9y_9LdjeueANJbobh6AwNmcFJkWPhv6LRkDBtkBjBKv9E-tVSXroIOrVn2IhwAqO129HXA5iMy77ig8ONjY5ZizbcFKrxwlJHHgLlPoBlSDPZU7MOtxub22s7U0yGks03zAInXcOxCs/s1600-h/DSC01877.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; WIDTH: 400px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: pointer" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5297597446251856562" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk9y_9LdjeueANJbobh6AwNmcFJkWPhv6LRkDBtkBjBKv9E-tVSXroIOrVn2IhwAqO129HXA5iMy77ig8ONjY5ZizbcFKrxwlJHHgLlPoBlSDPZU7MOtxub22s7U0yGks03zAInXcOxCs/s400/DSC01877.JPG" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXc4l87HPBNIDgRtbiZnC4F03Ta4lFYVFIW7hoMj2zHAHt4gi4SRTcWVxtrjJrInOm2ZXsha5q26KVv4OsCcKB-1oqL1-IqGt5JUip5CA0bcQQmvJZ0PVs6RYTsU3CcDCwdyPdc5HDSTA/s1600-h/DSC01857.JPG"><img style="MARGIN: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; 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